This historic Galician town was moved stone by stone in the 1960s to escape flooding. Its 12th-century fortress-church overlooks a reservoir where the old town lies beneath the water.
In Portomarín, you can climb the stone steps of a 12th-century church-fortress, walk across the bridge over Belesar reservoir, and see the remains of a medieval town beneath the water during dry seasons. This small Galician town along the French Way of the Camino de Santiago underwent one of Spain's most remarkable urban relocations in the 1960s.
The Fortress-Church of San Nicolás
The Church of San Nicolás rises above the town's main square, its 12th-century Romanesque walls stretching 2 meters thick. The building combines religious and military architecture with defensive towers and a crenellated top section. When you step inside, look up to see the carved capitals with biblical scenes and the large rose window that lights up the central nave. The church remains an active parish while welcoming pilgrims daily.
Walking Through Modern Portomarín
Plaza Mayor forms the center of town life, with several cafes and small shops where you'll find both locals and pilgrims. The straight, perpendicular streets make it easy to navigate - a layout that sets it apart from other Galician towns. As you walk around, you'll spot medieval buildings that were moved from the old town, including the Chapel of the Virgen de las Nieves and sections of the original town walls. Look for the numbered plaques that tell the story of each relocated structure.
The Town's Unique Relocation
In 1963, engineers flooded the original medieval Portomarín to create the Belesar reservoir. Workers numbered each stone of important buildings and used detailed architectural plans to rebuild them exactly on higher ground. During dry periods, the water level drops enough to reveal parts of the old town's foundations and streets.
Local Food and Drinks
Try the tarta de Portomarín, an almond cake made according to local recipes. Restaurants around the main square cook traditional Galician dishes, including hearty meals popular with Camino pilgrims. The bars serve Albariño, a white wine from the region, which goes well with fresh seafood dishes from the Galician coast.
