A calm city on Shikoku island, home to Japan's largest dance celebration - the Awa Odori festival. Mountain trails, waterfalls, and historic temples dot this riverside town.
Tokushima, the capital of Tokushima Prefecture on Shikoku Island, lies where the Yoshino River meets the sea, with green slopes of Mount Bizan rising behind it. Each August, the city erupts with the Awa Odori Festival, where dancers fill streets to rhythmic drumming. You can walk through the remains of a 16th-century castle, cross bridges made of twisted vines in mountain valleys, or take a cable car to hot springs. In spring, rafters tackle the Yoshino River's rapids, surfers catch waves along the Anan Coast, and autumn paints the Oboke Gorge in fiery colors. This region provides easy day trips to the spinning currents of Naruto Strait and secluded villages in the Iya Valley.
Awa Odori Festival Events and Participation
From August 12-15, Tokushima's streets pulse with Japan's biggest dance celebration. More than 10,000 performers in cotton robes and conical hats move to shamisen strings and booming drums, their chants of "Odoru aho ni miru aho" creating a call-and-response rhythm with spectators. You can watch organized groups from paid seats along Eki-mae Dori or follow informal dancing circles that form in alleyways after sunset. Street vendors sell local specialties like tender chicken skewered with sudachi citrus and thick noodles in soy-flavored pork broth. The festival peaks on the final night when fireworks explode above the Yoshino River, illuminating dancers who continue until dawn.
Observing Naruto Strait's Whirlpools
Twice daily, tidal shifts in the Naruto Strait create swirling water patterns visible from Onaruto Bridge. Between late March and early April, these whirlpools grow up to 20 meters wide as 15-knot currents clash through the narrow channel. Board a sightseeing boat from Uzushio Kisen Pier to feel the vortexes churn just meters from the hull, or walk the transparent Uzu no Michi pathway beneath the bridge for a downward view. At the Naruto Uzushio Science Museum, hands-on displays demonstrate how lunar cycles and seabed topography create the phenomenon. Plan visits around tide tables posted online, with strongest flows typically occurring two hours before peak high tide.
Vine Bridges and Mountain Valleys in Iya
Three hours by bus from Tokushima Station, the Iya Valley's kazurabashi bridges test visitors' nerve. The main 45-meter crossing sways above a river gorge, its floor made of wooden planks secured with mountain vines. Local stories suggest 12th-century warriors built these bridges to cut during enemy pursuit. A short drive west leads to the Oku-Iya pair of bridges, less crowded and surrounded by cedar forests. Nearby, the Iya Onsen cable car lowers passengers 170 meters to a riverside hot spring where you can bathe in sulfurous waters. Overnight stays at family-run inns like Iya Bijin include meals of wild mountain vegetables and grilled river fish.
Tokushima Castle History and City Views
Only stone foundations remain of Tokushima Castle, destroyed in the 19th century, but the onsite museum displays detailed models of its original 1586 layout. Exhibits highlight the region's indigo dye industry with blue-hued kimonos and farming tools used to process the plant. Walk through Shiroyama Park's reconstructed turret and Japanese garden, where carp swim in ponds shaded by maple trees. From the park's northeast corner, board the Bizan Ropeway cable car to reach Mount Bizan's summit. The observation deck provides clear views of Tokushima's grid-like streets and the Yoshino River delta, best photographed during golden hour before sunset.
Shikoku Pilgrimage Route Temples
Twenty-three temples along the 88-site Shikoku Pilgrimage lie within Tokushima Prefecture. Start at Ryozen-ji (Temple 1), where pilgrims buy white jackets and wooden staffs before beginning their 1,200 km journey. At Awa Kokubun-ji (Temple 15), admire the pagoda's curved eaves and a 14th-century statue of Yakushi Nyorai, the healing Buddha. Temple 13, Dainichi-ji, keeps a stone-carved Dainichi Nyorai image normally hidden from public view. Cyclists can rent bikes near Tokushima Station to visit the first 20 temples over two days, collecting red seal stamps at each site. Early April brings cherry blossoms to temple grounds like Anraku-ji (Temple 6), while November illuminates momiji maples at Zenrakuji (Temple 5).
Year-Round Outdoor Adventures
April's Hana Haru Festival transforms Tokushima Park with cherry blossoms and tea masters performing ceremonies under flowering trees. From May to July, join conservation groups on Ohama Beach to watch loggerhead turtles dig nesting holes after dark. Summer draws surfers to Kainan's beaches, where rental shops provide boards and wetsuits for riding consistent swells. Rafting companies operate on the Yoshino River through October, guiding groups down rapids flanked by steep cliffs. November's foliage peaks in Oboke Gorge, where flat-bottomed boats glide past orange and red maples. Even winter has highlights: see New Year's prayers at Ryozen-ji or contemporary art installations in Kamiyama's repurposed farmhouses.
Transportation Options and Local Travel
Tokushima Airport connects to Tokyo Haneda with five daily 90-minute flights. From Osaka, take the JR Limited Express train via Awaji Island (3.5 hours total). Ferries depart Wakayama twice daily, arriving near the Awaodori Kaikan museum where you can watch festival dances year-round. Buses to Iya Valley leave Tokushima Station at 8:30 AM and 1:00 PM, requiring advance seat reservations. Renting a car lets you explore at your own pace, stopping at roadside onsens or the hilltop village of Kamikatsu, known for recycling 80% of its waste. Within the city, trams run every 15 minutes between the station and major attractions like Bizan Ropeway.