Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa served as Sri Lanka's capital during the 12th century, with stone structures from this period still visible across its archaeological park. Walk through the remains of King Parakramabahu I's palace, where brick walls rise three stories high beside a 55-meter stupa. Cycle past Parakrama Samudra, a reservoir built 800 years ago that still waters rice fields today, and watch monkeys climb over temples left by South Indian rulers. The site preserves royal bathing pools, Buddhist shrines with granite carvings, and libraries that stored palm-leaf manuscripts. These elements create a detailed record of daily life under Sinhalese kings and later Tamil influences.

History of Polonnaruwa

South Indian Chola rulers established Polonnaruwa as their capital in 1070 after defeating Anuradhapura's kingdom. Sinhalese kings regained control and expanded the city over the next two centuries, constructing reservoirs that still supply water to farms. Attacks from neighboring kingdoms weakened the city by the 1300s, leading to its gradual abandonment. British archaeologists began restoring collapsed buildings in 1903, uncovering tools, art, and religious items now displayed in the site museum.

Main Archaeological Sites

Begin at the Royal Palace Group, where foundations show the layout of Parakramabahu I's living quarters and meeting halls. Move to the Audience Hall 200 meters east, noting the 48 carved elephants along its base and the carved semicircular stone at its entrance. The Sacred Quadrangle holds two key structures: the circular Vatadage with Buddha statues facing north, south, east, and west, and the Hatadage, a stone building thought to have protected the Buddha's Tooth Relic.

One kilometer north, Gal Vihara presents four Buddha images cut from granite, including a 14-meter-long figure lying on its side. The Lankatilaka Temple stands with partial walls reaching 17 meters high, and the Rankot Vihara stupa remains the tallest monument here at 54 meters.

Visiting Tips

Buy tickets at the Archaeological Museum, which holds bronze statues and medical instruments from excavation sites. Rent bicycles from shops near the museum gate to reach distant areas like the Shiva Devale No. 2, a Hindu temple with thick stone walls. Arrive before 8:30 AM to avoid crowds at popular spots like the reclining Buddha. Licensed guides near the ticket counter explain details about construction techniques used in buildings like the Kumara Pokuna bathing pool.

Entry Requirements and Clothing

The $25 entrance fee includes access to all monuments and the museum. Wear shirts with sleeves and pants or skirts below knee length when entering religious sites like the Thuparama Gedige shrine. Carry water and wear sturdy shoes for walking across uneven stone paths. Plan to rest between 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM when shaded areas near the Satmahal Prasada stepped pyramid provide relief from the sun.

Animals in the Area

Monkeys frequently climb trees around the Satmahal Prasada, particularly gray langurs with black faces. Visit Minneriya National Park, 18 kilometers southwest, from July to September to observe large groups of elephants drinking at the reservoir. The park’s forests also contain spotted deer and birds like painted storks that nest in tall trees.

Where to Stay and Getting Here

Guesthouses such as Seyara Holiday Resort sit within walking distance of the museum, while Deer Park Hotel has rooms overlooking Parakrama Samudra. Buses leave every 90 minutes for Dambulla (90-minute ride) and Sigiriya (two-hour ride). Trains from Colombo require changing at Habarana station, followed by a 45-minute taxi or three-wheel ride.

Best Times to Visit

December through March brings cooler nights but humid mornings ideal for early exploration. June to September offers the best chances to see elephants at Minneriya. April and October have the highest temperatures, often reaching 34°C (93°F) by midday. Brief rain showers in November rarely last more than two hours, but can make some bicycle paths slippery.