This calm Estonian coastal town is known for its therapeutic mud baths, 13th-century castle ruins, and wooden-lace architecture. The sandy beach promenade leads to local cafes.
Haapsalu sits on Estonia’s western shore, where you can walk on medieval castle grounds, try century-old spa treatments, and follow paths by the sea. Established in 1279 as a bishop’s fortress, the town later drew Russian nobles who believed in the healing power of its coastal mud. Wooden houses in soft shades line the streets, and the ruins of Haapsalu Castle invite exploration. A marble bench near the water honors Tchaikovsky, who wrote music here one summer. In August, blues musicians perform in open spaces, and by autumn, film fans gather for horror and fantasy screenings. Spend time soaking in warm mud, examining delicate knitted shawls, or tracing the outlines of old Orthodox churches.
Haapsalu Castle: Stone Walls and Stories
Built in the 13th century, Haapsalu Castle rises above the town with thick stone walls and a cathedral that still holds concerts. This was once the center of the Bishopric of Ösel-Wiek, and you can climb the tallest tower to see the bay and rooftops below. Guides share stories of the “White Lady,” a ghostly figure said to appear in the cathedral window on August nights when the moon is full. During summer, the castle grounds fill with markets selling handmade pottery and blacksmith work. A short walk away, the Railway Museum displays a 216-meter platform built for the Tsar’s train, a reminder of Haapsalu’s imperial connections.
Warm Mud Treatments and Spa Culture
In 1825, a doctor named Carl Abraham Hunnius started offering mud therapies here, which soon brought Russian aristocrats to the town. Three spas still use Baltic Sea mud for skin treatments and joint relief. The Kuursaal, a grand building on the waterfront, has stained-glass windows that cast colored light into its treatment rooms. After a mud session, swim in the sea or walk the coastal path lined with pine trees. Some hotels include spa access with your room, letting you add relaxation to your trip without extra planning.
Walking the Seaside Paths
Haapsalu’s waterfront promenade, rebuilt in 2010, curves past small boats and old fishing sheds. Begin at the Tchaikovsky Bench, which sometimes plays his music, then pass St. Mary Magdalene Orthodox Church with its golden domes. Families swim at Aafrika Beach in summer, and when it’s colder, people walk here wrapped in thick coats. Rent a kayak to paddle the calm waters of Väike Viik, or take the trail through Paralepa Forest to reach empty beaches. North of town, a series of small islands connects by narrow footbridges, perfect for a short walk.
Thin Wool Shawls and Knitting Traditions
Haapsalu is known for lightweight wool shawls knitted in patterns as fine as spiderwebs. At the Haapsalu Shawl Centre, watch artisans create these using techniques from the 1800s. The Läänemaa Museum keeps older examples decorated with flowers and leaves. Today’s knitters use bright reds and blues alongside classic white, keeping the craft alive. Every November, the Shawl Festival holds knitting classes and shows new designs on outdoor runways.
Music and Movies by the Sea
Blues guitars and harmonicas fill Haapsalu each August during a festival that turns courtyards into concert spaces. When leaves turn yellow, the Horror and Fantasy Film Festival screens movies in theaters and outdoor pop-up cinemas. Directors sometimes introduce their work, and cafes stay open late for discussions. The Kuursaal hosts events for both festivals, and guides lead walks to spots featured in The Fencer, a movie filmed here.
Wooden Houses and Church Towers
Haapsalu’s Old Town streets are lined with wooden homes from the 1800s, many painted pale green or cream. Wide porches on these houses once let spa guests enjoy salty breezes. Visit Jaani Church to see its wooden altar and simple pews, or photograph the contrast between St. Mary Magdalene’s glittering icons and the plain white manor houses nearby. In the Holmi area, residents grow roses and lilacs under the castle’s shadow. Architecture tours explain how these buildings survived fires and wars, pointing out curved Art Nouveau window frames.
Nearby Islands and Nature Trails
Ferries from RohukĂĽla port go to Vormsi, an island where Swedish-Estonian families once lived, leaving behind stone fences and cemeteries. Paralepa Park, just outside town, has pine-shaded trails leading to a beach where herons wade in shallow water. Rent a bike to follow the coastal road past villages and abandoned military bunkers. Families with children might prefer Ilon Wonderland, a park filled with carved wooden trolls and fairy-tale creatures. For birdwatching, drive south to Matsalu National Park, where cranes and elk roam wetlands.
