This medieval town in Jaén has preserved its 16th-century Spanish architecture, including the Mudéjar-style Santa María church and 13th-century Convento de Santa Clara.
Baeza sits surrounded by olive groves in Jaén province. Walk its stone-paved streets and you'll pass the Cathedral of Natividad de Nuestra Señora with its Gothic arches, the Jabalquinto Palace decorated with detailed stone flowers, and the Old University where Antonio Machado taught. Roman ruins lie beneath some buildings, and Moorish influences appear in courtyard designs. Local taverns serve bacalao a la baezana—salt cod cooked with tomatoes—and the scent of olive oil hangs in the air. The town’s layout remains easy to explore on foot, with most landmarks within a 15-minute walk of each other.
Key Monuments and Renaissance Architecture
Andrés de Vandelvira, a leading Renaissance architect, shaped many of Baeza’s buildings. Start at the Cathedral in Plaza de Santa María, where Gothic ribbed ceilings meet a choir section added during the 16th century. Next, examine the Jabalquinto Palace’s facade: its stonework includes vines, pomegranates, and heraldic shields carved in the Isabelline Gothic style. The Town Hall’s exterior displays finely etched window frames typical of Plateresque design. At the Old University, step into Machado’s classroom—wooden desks face a blackboard he used during French lessons. For contrast, visit Santa Cruz Church, a rare Romanesque building in Andalusia with plain stone walls and rounded arches.
Exploring Baeza’s Central Squares
Plaza de Santa María centers around the Cathedral and Seminary of San Felipe Neri, two imposing stone structures. Walk ten minutes north to Plaza de Santa Cruz, where the Old University’s golden walls reflect afternoon light. Southeast of here, Plaza del Pópulo draws visitors to its Lions Fountain, a stone basin supported by four mythical creatures. Cafes here serve cortados and tapas like marinated olives. These squares connect via alleys lined with white houses; look for potted red geraniums on balconies. Early mornings bring quiet moments to photograph arched doorways and cobblestone paths without crowds.
Local Dishes and Olive Oil Culture
Jaén province produces nearly 20% of the world’s olive oil, and Baeza’s kitchens use it liberally. Order lomo de orza—pork loin cured in oil with paprika—or andrajos, a stew combining rabbit, noodles, and wild greens. Bakeries near Plaza del Pópulo sell ochío, a flatbread brushed with oil and sprinkled with coarse salt. For dessert, try olive oil ice cream at Heladería San Antonio. Learn about production methods at the Olive Culture Museum, located in a 1600s estate. Its displays include iron presses from the 1800s and a short film explaining modern harvesting machines.
Following Antonio Machado’s Legacy
Between 1912 and 1919, poet Antonio Machado lived in Baeza while teaching at the Old University. His former classroom keeps a wooden desk, attendance lists, and early copies of his poetry collections. A young Federico García Lorca visited him here in 1916, beginning a years-long exchange of ideas. Find the bronze statue of Machado on Paseo de la Constitución, gazing toward the Guadalquivir Valley. If you visit in October, check for poetry readings in the University’s courtyard, often held at dusk.
Visiting Úbeda and Nearby Olive Farms
Úbeda, a 15-minute drive east, shares Baeza’s UNESCO status. Focus on Vázquez de Molina Square, home to El Salvador Chapel’s domed roof and intricate altarpieces. Return to Baeza by lunchtime to compare the two towns’ atmospheres. Both sit within endless olive groves; take the highway toward Jaén city for sweeping views of orderly tree rows. Some farms, like Hacienda La Laguna, offer hour-long tours. Guides explain how workers hand-pick olives each November and demonstrate oil sampling techniques using small spoons.
Getting to Baeza and Visitor Tips
Drive from Madrid via the main highway (3.5 hours) or take a bus from Granada Airport (90 minutes). Buses from Málaga Airport require a transfer in Jaén city. April-June and September-October provide comfortable temperatures for walking. Summer afternoons often reach 38°C (100°F), so plan indoor visits to museums during peak heat. Entry to most monuments costs €3-4, with discounts for students. On September 8th, join locals carrying flower wreaths during the Romería de la Yedra procession to a hillside chapel.
Olive Culture Museum Details
This museum occupies a restored hacienda three blocks west of Plaza del Pópulo. Inside, you’ll find Roman-era clay jars used for oil storage and a full-scale replica of a 1920s mill. Guides crush olives using a traditional stone press during demonstrations. Outside, walk among olive trees labeled with their ages—the oldest dates to the 1500s. Before leaving, browse the shop’s selection of flavored oils, including lemon-infused and smoked varieties. Allow 45 minutes to explore the exhibits thoroughly.
