A whitewashed mountain village at 1,436 meters in Spain's Sierra Nevada. Its narrow streets, traditional architecture and Berber influence reflect its Moorish past.
At 1,436 meters in Spain’s Sierra Nevada, Capileira holds the title of highest village in the Poqueira Gorge. White houses with flat roofs and wooden balconies cling to slopes below Mulhacén, the tallest mountain on mainland Spain. Steep cobblestone streets pass stone fountains and terraced plots where locals grow potatoes and beans. The 18th-century Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Cabeza church stands near the Pedro Antonio de Alarcón Museum, which exhibits farming tools and handwritten journals. From the Eras de Aldeire threshing circles, you can see neighboring villages Bubión and Pampaneira stacked along the gorge. Between June and September, buses take hikers to trailheads above the tree line.
Hiking Routes and Trail Access
Capileira is the main starting point for hikes in the Sierra Nevada. To climb Mulhacén, follow the two-day route that stops at Refugio de Poqueira, a stone shelter with bunk beds and a kitchen. From late June through September, a morning bus departs for Mirador de Trevélez, reducing the climb to 8 hours. For shorter walks, take the Poqueira Gorge trail through almond orchards and past crumbling mills that once ground flour. The path to Veleta peak begins behind the village cemetery, marked by yellow-and-white signs. Buy topographic maps at shops along Calle Real, or ask your accommodation about group hikes led by certified guides.
Exploring the Village Layout and Buildings
Walk through the village and you’ll notice how tightly packed houses deflect strong winds common at this altitude. Builders used slate from nearby quarries for roofs and chimneys, with poplar beams supporting interior ceilings. Look for carved stone troughs along pathways—these fountains channel meltwater from Veleta’s glaciers. In the lower quarter, the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Cabeza displays a gold-leaf altarpiece restored in 2019. Recent renovations to guesthouses added insulation and solar panels, but kept original clay roof tiles and iron door fittings.
Best Views and Cultural Sites
Reach Eras de Aldeire by walking 15 minutes north from Plaza del Calvario—the circular stone platforms here give clear sightlines across the gorge to Pampaneira’s red-tiled roofs. A viewpoint on the southeastern edge of town has diagrams explaining how glaciers shaped the valley over millennia. The Pedro Antonio de Alarcón Museum on Calle Mentidero opens Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 AM to 2:00 PM; entry costs €2. Exhibits include hand-operated wool carders, a 19th-century olive press, and traditional hemp sandals. Staff speak basic English and provide photocopied translations of key displays.
Food and Shopping Tips
Order plato alpujarreño at local restaurants to try smoked pork loin, fried potatoes, and black pudding served on a wooden board. Many kitchens prepare trout caught in the Río Poqueira, seasoned with wild thyme. Saturday markets near the bus stop sell jars of chestnut honey and handwoven tablecloths made in Bubión. When you order a drink at bars like El Corral del Niño, expect small plates of garlic soup or potato stew at no extra charge. Vegetarian options are scarce outside Casa Marcos on Calle San Antonio, which serves roasted vegetable platters.
Getting Here and Staying Prepared
Buses leave Granada’s station three times daily for Capileira, stopping in Lanjarón and Pampaneira. Drivers must park in the signed lot at the village entrance—narrow streets aren’t accessible to vehicles. July and August temperatures average 22°C, but pack warm layers for sudden afternoon storms. The tourist office next to the church loans printed maps highlighting accessible trails and water sources. Before attempting multi-day hikes, buy trail snacks like dried apricots and tinned sardines from Supermercado La Artesa.
Visiting Surrounding Areas
Follow the footpath marked with blue arrows downhill to Bubión (25 minutes) or Pampaneira (40 minutes), where artisans demonstrate rug-weaving on antique looms. Drive 18 km east to Trevélez to tour family-run bodegas curing jamón serrano in mountain air. For a half-day trip, head west to Órgiva’s Friday market selling leather bags and organic almonds. The Buddhist stupa at O Sel Ling monastery, 12 km southwest of Órgiva, welcomes visitors mornings and afternoons. Return to Capileira via the mountain road overlooking olive terraces and the Guadalfeo River.
