This mountain village at 1,060m in Spain's Poqueira Gorge has white houses with bright jarapas workshops, a 16th-century church, and ancient Arab washing places beneath the Sierra Nevada peaks.
At 1,060 meters in Spain's Poqueira Gorge, Pampaneira's white houses cascade down the mountainside beneath the Sierra Nevada peaks. You'll find artisans weaving bright jarapas (carpets) in their workshops, locals gathering at the 16th-century Santa Cruz Church, and women chatting at the centuries-old Arab washing place. Beyond the village limits, monks at O Sel Ling Buddhist monastery meditate with views stretching to the Mediterranean Sea.
Walking Through Pampaneira's Streets
Cobblestone streets slope steeply between white houses with flat roofs and tall chimneys. Small water channels cut through the center of many streets, directing mountain rainfall and snow melt. You'll walk through tinaos - covered passageways connecting houses across the streets - which create cool spots in summer and protect from rain in winter. Red geraniums and purple bougainvillea hang from balconies and window boxes against the whitewashed walls.
Plaza de la Libertad
Santa Cruz Church towers over the main square, where village life unfolds throughout the day. At the restaurants, you can try plato alpujarreño - a filling meal of fried eggs, potatoes, peppers, morcilla (blood sausage), and locally-cured ham. Browse craft shops for woven textiles, leather goods, and ceramics made by local artisans. The square's cafes let you watch village life while sipping coffee or local wine.
The Arab Washing Place
In the village's lower quarter, you'll find the restored 19th-century lavadero (washing place), a reminder of Moorish times. Three stone arches frame the rectangular basin where village women gathered to wash clothes. Above it, the Cerrillo fountain's three spouts still flow with cold mountain spring water.
Local Crafts and Products
In workshops across the village, weavers create jarapas - striped carpets made from recycled cotton and wool, a craft brought by northern Spanish settlers in the 16th century. Small producers make mountain honey, age goat cheese, and cure jamón serrano in the mountain air. Several chocolatiers craft sweets using ingredients from the surrounding area.
Walking Routes in the Poqueira Gorge
You can follow marked trails connecting Pampaneira to Bubión and Capileira villages. The GR7 long-distance path crosses through Pampaneira as it winds through the Alpujarras. Stop by the tourist office on Plaza de la Libertad for maps of routes ranging from village-to-village walks to mountain hikes.
Getting to Pampaneira
Buses run three times daily between Granada and Pampaneira, continuing to Bubión and Capileira. By car, the 67-kilometer journey from Granada takes about 1.5 hours on the A-4132 road. Park in the lots at the village entrance, but arrive early during busy periods as spaces fill quickly.
Weather and Seasons
Spring temperatures range from 15-20°C (59-68°F), perfect for walking among mountain wildflowers. Summer stays mild at 20-25°C (68-77°F) due to the altitude. Winter occasionally brings snow, rarely lasting more than a few days. In October, the annual Craft, Agricultural and Tourism Fair fills the streets with local producers selling their goods.
