This small Basque fishing village on Spain's north coast has one of Europe's best left-hand waves, attracting surfers year-round to its beach break at the mouth of the Urdaibai estuary.
Mundaka sits where the Oka River flows into the Cantabrian Sea, its narrow streets lined with stone houses that face the water. Surfers gather here for the wave that forms at the river mouth, while fishermen unload their catch near the port each morning. The 16th-century Santa Maria Church stands above a playground where kids practice balancing on low walls, and the Santa Catalina Hermitage clings to a rocky peninsula just beyond the harbor. From September to December, the village fills with surfers here to ride the challenging wave, and in summer, crowds gather for pelota matches and street parties fueled by cider. Even on quiet days, you’ll see locals chatting on benches along the promenade or sipping espresso at portside cafes.
Surfing the River Mouth Wave
The wave at Mundaka’s river mouth forms a fast, hollow tube that can run up to 400 meters when conditions align. Northwest swells from the Bay of Biscay meet the Urdaibai estuary’s sandbar between September and December, creating consistent breaks best suited for shortboards. Aim for low to mid-tide sessions when the wave holds its shape, but be aware of strong currents that can pull inexperienced surfers toward the port. This spot hosted the Billabong Pro World Championship Tour in the early 2000s, attracting professionals from across the globe. If you’re new to surfing, head to Laida Beach east of town where gentler waves allow for lessons. Watch riders from the harbor wall or join a surf school to learn basics like reading tides.
The Port and Nearby Beaches
Mundaka’s port centers around a compact harbor where fishing boats dock beside restaurants grilling fresh-caught fish. Brightly painted houses with flower-filled balconies line the waterfront, and in summer, locals sunbathe on the wide granite blocks that protect the harbor. Walk east along the promenade to reach Laidatxu Beach, a small cove with soft sand and calm water for swimming. To the west, a path leads past tidal marshes where herons hunt at sunset. The port stays busy year-round—surfers pass elderly mending nets, and shops like Mundaka BC display locally made clothing alongside rotating art exhibits.
Santa Catalina Hermitage and Coastal Walks
A short walk from the port takes you to the Santa Catalina Hermitage, built in 1879 on a windswept peninsula. Earlier chapels here served as quarantine zones during plagues and meeting spots for fishermen. Nearby, crumbling walls mark the remains of a 19th-century fort that once guarded the estuary. Inside the hermitage, plain wooden benches face a simple altar under vaulted stone ceilings. Check tide charts before visiting—low tide reveals rocky pools filled with crabs and small fish. The path back to town offers views of surfers tackling waves below the cliffs.
Santa Maria Church and Town History
Santa Maria Church dominates Mundaka’s skyline with its 19th-century bell tower and Gothic stonework. Rebuilt in the 1500s after wars damaged earlier structures, the church houses a detailed gold altarpiece showing saints alongside fish and ships. Climb the tower’s narrow stairs to see red rooftops stretching toward the estuary. Next to the church, a park with a fronton court hosts casual pelota games, and kids play on a playground designed with concrete slopes resembling waves. Look for stone carvings of ships on the church’s exterior, a nod to Mundaka’s seafaring past.
Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve Exploration
The Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve surrounds Mundaka with marshes, forests, and sandy estuaries. Hike east on marked trails to reach the Atalaya viewpoint, which overlooks the Oka River’s winding path to the sea. Rent a kayak to paddle through quiet channels lined with reeds, or join a guided tour to spot ospreys and spoonbills at dawn. From June to September, a ferry runs to Laida Beach across the estuary, where dunes give way to holm oak woodlands. Keep quiet near the riverbanks at dusk—otters often hunt here as daylight fades.
Festivals and Seasonal Events
On June 29, Mundaka celebrates San Pedro with boat processions decorated in flowers and live music near the port. The last week of August brings the Euskal Jaia festival, where teams compete in wood-chopping races and dancers perform in traditional white-and-red costumes. Street vendors sell talo—warm corn flatbread stuffed with chorizo—and crowds gather for evening concerts. During Carnival, locals parade through the port in elaborate costumes, often poking fun at historical figures. Year-round, bars like Goika serve anchovy pintxos and cider, with regulars debating the next day’s surf forecast.
Nearby Visits: Bermeo and San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
Drive 10 minutes west to Bermeo, where fishing boats unload tuna at a harbor lined with rainbow-colored buildings. From here, hike coastal trails to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, a medieval hermitage atop a rocky island connected by a stone bridge. Climb the 241 steps for panoramic views of the Basque coast, then return to Bermeo for grilled fish at a harborfront restaurant. East of Mundaka, Gernika-Lumo’s Peace Museum details the 1937 bombing depicted in Picasso’s famous painting, with exhibits on reconstruction efforts.
Getting Here and Staying
Take the Euskotren from Bilbao to Mundaka—the 50-minute ride passes vineyards and traditional farmhouses. Rent an apartment near the port to shop at the morning fish market and cook local specialties. Bring a wetsuit for surfing, as water temperatures rarely exceed 15°C, and wear sturdy shoes for rocky coastal paths. Most restaurants close by 10 PM, but a few spots stay open late for drinks and conversation. Check surf reports daily, as conditions can change rapidly with shifting winds and tides.
