This small Andalusian town has an imposing 15th-century fortress-palace and narrow medieval streets lined with whitewashed houses. Its local market runs since 1380.
Walk through Zafra’s Plaza Grande under its stone arcades, where locals gather at tapas bars beneath 15th-century arches. This town in Spain’s Extremadura region centers around two squares linked by the Arquillo del Pan, a vaulted passageway. The Alcázar de los Duques de Feria, a fortress-palace with a marble Renaissance courtyard, rises above whitewashed streets shaped like a turtle shell. Zafra’s history as a Roman crossroads and medieval trade hub lives in its intact city gates, Mudéjar convents, and the September San Miguel Fair, one of Spain’s oldest livestock markets.
The Alcázar Fortress and Its Historical Role
The Alcázar de los Duques de Feria stands over the town with eight defensive towers, four of which rise 24 meters. Built in 1437 for the Dukes of Feria, its design includes thick walls and a layout meant to repel attacks. Inside, palatial rooms like the Sala Dorada reveal gold-leaf ceilings and carved wooden beams. Though now a Parador hotel, visitors can walk through its courtyards and Gothic cloister without booking a room. Don’t miss the 16th-century iron railings on the staircases or the Santa Clara Convent nearby, where nuns bake almond cookies sold through a rotating wooden hatch.
Plaza Grande and Plaza Chica: Daily Life and History
Plaza Grande started as a medieval market, with stone arcades added in 1453 to shelter traders. Today, you’ll find cafes such as El Acebuche serving migas—crispy fried breadcrumbs with chorizo—under these arches. Walk through the Arquillo del Pan gateway to reach Plaza Chica, the older square where town criers once announced news. Both squares come alive in the evenings when families gather to chat and shop for local products like smoked paprika or Torta del Casar cheese. The stone benches built into the arcades remain popular spots to sit and watch daily life unfold.
Churches and Convents: Art and Craftsmanship
The Colegiata de la Candelaria houses three elaborate altarpieces, including one painted by Francisco de Zurbarán and another carved by José Benito de Churriguera. Its main entrance shows detailed stone carvings of the Virgin Mary framed by twisted columns. A short walk away, the Hospital de Santiago’s chapel keeps a crucifix marked with what locals believe is blood from a 1600s political killing. The Santa Clara Convent’s hexagonal dome displays intricate brick patterns from the Mudéjar period, contrasting with later gold-covered altars added during Baroque renovations.
San Miguel Fair: Markets and Music
Every September, Zafra holds the San Miguel Fair, which began in the 1300s as a livestock exchange. Mornings start with farmers negotiating prices for Iberian pigs near the old Roman gates. By afternoon, food stalls sell dishes like huevos con migas, and at night, the fairground lights up with flamenco shows and pop concerts. Bullfights take place in a temporary arena built just for the event. Paper banners strung between lampposts flutter above crowds dancing sevillanas until dawn.
Medieval Streets and Defensive Walls
In the Jewish Quarter, the Callejón de la MorerÃa preserves original cobblestones and doorways with arched tops shaped like horseshoes. Three of Zafra’s eight medieval gates still stand: Jerez Gate has a round tower, Cubo Gate shows narrow slots for archers, and Badajoz Gate points toward the ancient road to Mérida. Remnants of the town walls, some over 2 meters thick, run alongside the Alcázar’s gardens. Look for grooves in the stone where metal gates once hung.
Nearby Destinations: Castles and Ancient Sites
Drive 10 kilometers to Burguillos del Cerro, where a 13th-century Templar castle watches over whitewashed houses packed tightly on a hillside. Jerez de los Caballeros, 45 minutes west, has Baroque churches with red-and-white bell towers and the Torre Sangrienta, a tower where knights were killed during a medieval power struggle. Closer to Zafra, the La Vega archaeological site lets you see floor mosaics from a Roman villa that once stood along the VÃa de la Plata trade route.
Planning Your Visit
Zafra’s train station has direct routes to Seville (2 hours) and Mérida (45 minutes). The town center is compact enough to explore on foot, but renting a car helps reach hiking paths in the Sierra de Castellar hills. Many shops close between 14:00 and 17:00 for the midday break. Visit Mercado de Abastos on Calle San José to buy acorn-fed Iberian ham sliced fresh from the leg.
