A former US military base turned into Greenland's main air travel hub, with a small population of 500. Near the Greenland ice sheet and home to Arctic wildlife.
Kangerlussuaq lies at the eastern edge of a 190-kilometer fjord, framed by Greenland’s easiest-to-reach Arctic terrain. Built as a U.S. military base in 1941, the settlement now functions as Greenland’s main air travel hub. You can walk onto the Greenland Ice Sheet at Point 660, watch ice break away from the Russell Glacier, or follow paths where muskoxen often appear. Clear skies here allow views of the northern lights on most nights between September and March. With fewer than 500 residents and more roads than any other Greenlandic town, this place gives direct access to remote landscapes you won’t find elsewhere in the country.
Reaching the Greenland Ice Sheet by Road
Kangerlussuaq has the only road in Greenland that leads directly to the Greenland Ice Sheet. The 25-kilometer gravel path takes you to Point 660, where you step onto the ice cap covering 1.7 million square kilometers. Guides help visitors walk across the ice with crampons or set up overnight camps. Along the drive, you might see muskoxen feeding in valleys dotted with dwarf willows. Helicopters departing from the airport fly over deep cracks in the ice and blue meltwater channels visible from above.
Russell Glacier: Ice and Tundra Collide
The Russell Glacier, a 60-meter wall of ice 25 kilometers northeast of town, meets the tundra where ice and land interact. Hiking trails lead to viewpoints where you hear ice splitting from the glacier’s face. During winter, dog sled teams follow frozen rivers to reach the glacier’s base. This area marks the start of the Arctic Circle Trail, a week-long hiking route to Sisimiut. When snow covers the ground, you can rent fat-tire bikes or cross-country skis in town to explore the area.
Muskoxen and Arctic Wildlife
More than 5,000 muskoxen live in the hills around Kangerlussuaq, their thick fur protecting them from extreme cold. Join guided wildlife safaris by 4x4 or on foot to see these animals up close, along with Arctic foxes and reindeer. Seals often swim in the fjord, and whales sometimes surface near the coast. Birdwatchers spot gyrfalcons circling cliffs or migratory geese resting in wetlands during spring and fall. Summer’s extended twilight hours create good conditions for photographing animals in soft golden light.
Hiking and Water Activities in Summer
Between June and September, purple saxifrage and Arctic poppies color the tundra under nearly constant daylight. Walk to Garnet Rock for views of the fjord’s zigzagging channels or climb Sugarloaf Mountain’s slopes. Rent a kayak to paddle Lake Ferguson’s calm waters, then eat freshly caught Arctic char at the lakeside Roklubben restaurant. The Qinnguata Kuussua river’s shallow rapids attract anglers fishing for Arctic char. Each October, runners cross part of the ice sheet during the Polar Circle Marathon’s half-marathon route.
Dog Sledding and Winter Skies
From November to April, dog sleds become the main way to travel across frozen ground. Local guides lead trips lasting a few hours to the ice sheet or multi-day journeys along historic Inuit paths to Sisimiut. With minimal cloud cover and no light pollution, the northern lights appear frequently on clear winter nights. Try drilling through meter-thick ice with traditional tools during ice fishing sessions. Temperatures regularly fall below -20°C, but rental companies supply heavy-duty winter gear for all activities.
Military History and Greenlandic Traditions
Kangerlussuaq’s past as a WWII airbase shows in its straight streets and repurposed military buildings. The local museum exhibits Cold War-era radios, flight maps, and survival kits from early polar aviation. Greenland’s first brewery uses ice sheet meltwater to make beers like Polar Bear Ale. At the By Heart store, learn to knit scarves using muskox wool collected from nearby bushes. Time your visit to join a kaffemik—a social event where families serve coffee with cakes like berry-topped “sweet soup.” Ancient Inuit hunting camps at Aasivissuit-Nipisat, a UNESCO site 40 kilometers west, display stone tent rings and meat caches.
Travel Logistics and Accommodation
Kangerlussuaq Airport handles daily flights from Copenhagen and seasonal routes from Iceland, even after Nuuk’s new international terminal opens in 2024. Hotel Kangerlussuaq, connected to the terminal, has 70 simple rooms for short stays. The Kangerlussuaq Vandrehjem hostel offers budget rooms with kitchen access a 20-minute walk from the runway. Bring warm layers—summer days range from chilly mornings to mild afternoons, and winter requires full thermal gear. Reserve guided tours early if visiting in June-August or February-March, when demand peaks.