This growing desert city in southern Israel has a rich Bedouin market, ancient ruins dating to Ottoman times, and a modern university district that drives its tech industry.
Beer Sheva sits at the edge of the Negev desert, where you'll find Ottoman-era stone buildings, a sprawling university campus, and one of the world's largest collections of military aircraft. Walk through the grid-pattern streets of the 1900s Turkish quarter, bargain at the weekly Bedouin market, or watch grandmasters play chess in the city parks.
Getting Around Beer Sheva
You can reach most parts of Beer Sheva by bus from the central station. Trains run to Tel Aviv (1.5 hours) and Jerusalem (2 hours) from two stations: Beer Sheva Center and Beer Sheva North/University. The city's 250 roundabouts create an easy-to-follow navigation system - locals give directions using these circular intersections as reference points.
The Old Turkish Quarter
Walk the geometric grid of streets laid out in 1900, when Ottoman planners designed this desert city. The limestone buildings house interior courtyards behind thick walls, keeping spaces cool in summer heat. Several buildings now serve new purposes - the former Ottoman governor's house is now an art gallery, while the old mosque hosts changing exhibitions.
University District Life
More than 20,000 students fill the streets around Ben-Gurion University, especially along Rager Boulevard. You'll find study groups in cafes until late evening, and street musicians perform near campus during the mild weather from October to April. The university's palm-lined paths are open to visitors during daytime hours.
Chess Capital of Israel
Stop by the city chess club to watch games in progress, or join locals playing speed chess in public parks. The 1990s brought many Russian grandmasters to Beer Sheva, making it a center for competitive chess. The university's chess hall hosts tournaments monthly, which are open to spectators.
Air Force Museum at Hatzerim
Walk through rows of fighter jets, helicopters, and transport planes at this outdoor museum 5 kilometers west of the city center. You can climb into several cockpits, including those of captured MiG fighters and early Israeli aircraft. Take guided tours in English at 11:00 and 14:00 daily to learn about each aircraft's combat history.
Food Scene
Find shawarma stands and falafel shops near the university, where students gather for quick meals. Russian restaurants serve borscht and pelmeni, while Ethiopian spots prepare traditional injera platters. In the market area, follow your nose to small kitchens making North African couscous and grilled meats. Try Bedouin restaurants for mansaf (lamb with rice) and zarb (underground-cooked meat and vegetables).
Day Trips from Beer Sheva
Use Beer Sheva as your starting point for Negev desert exploration. Buses leave regularly for Mitzpe Ramon's crater (2 hours), where you can hike desert trails or join night stargazing tours. Visit the Dead Sea (2.5 hours) for floating in mineral-rich waters, or explore Masada's ancient fortress (2 hours). The Tel Beer Sheva archaeological park, just 10 minutes from the city, contains 3,000-year-old city walls and a reconstructed water system.
