An ancient desert city with sandstone fortifications glowing golden at sunset. Merchant mansions line narrow streets, while the Thar Desert beckons with camel safaris.
In western Rajasthan's Thar Desert sits Jaisalmer, where yellow sandstone buildings glow in the sunlight. Walk through the 12th-century fort's narrow streets past stone-carved temples and old merchant homes, shop for silver jewelry in crowded bazaars, or take a camel trek into the desert dunes. At night, camp under desert stars while Manganiyar musicians play traditional songs on their kamaicha stringed instruments.
Living Fort of Jaisalmer
About 3,000 people live within this 12th-century fort's walls, continuing an 800-year tradition. You can walk through the fort's four main gates and explore its winding lanes, where locals run shops, restaurants, and guesthouses. Seven Jain temples built between the 12th and 15th centuries display wall carvings depicting dancing figures, geometric patterns, and animal motifs, all carved in yellow sandstone.
Exploring the Desert
The sand dunes of the Thar Desert begin just outside Jaisalmer. Take a camel trek ranging from 2-hour rides to 3-day expeditions. Many visitors camp in the desert, where local guides set up sleeping bags on the dunes. The Sam Sand Dunes, 45 kilometers west, rise up to 50 meters high. Time your visit for sunset, when the changing light creates shadows across the rippled sand.
Historic Mansions
Merchant families built multi-story sandstone mansions in the 18th and 19th centuries. The five connected houses of Patwon ki Haveli contain 60 balconies, each with different geometric patterns carved into the stone. At Salim Singh ki Haveli, look for the 38 balconies shaped like peacock feathers. Nathmal ki Haveli's facade combines stone elephants, flowers, and birds with delicate mirror inlays.
Markets and Shopping
In the lanes around the fort, artisans work in open shops making silver jewelry and embroidered textiles. Sadar Bazaar's narrow streets fill with stalls selling camel-leather bags, wool shawls, and mirror-work fabrics. Walk through Pansari Bazaar to smell local spices like red chilies, turmeric, and cardamom used in Rajasthani cooking.
Getting Around
Flights connect Jaisalmer Airport with Delhi (2 hours), Mumbai (2.5 hours), and Jaipur (1 hour). Daily trains run between Jaisalmer and Jaipur, taking about 12 hours. Local buses travel to Jodhpur (5 hours) and Bikaner (6 hours).
Desert Festival
The three-day Desert Festival in February transforms the sand dunes into an open-air celebration. Watch camel races across the desert, traditional fire dancers, and competitions where locals compete to carry the heaviest water pots. Manganiyar musicians play folk songs on traditional instruments like the kamaicha and khartal.
Local Food
Rajasthani cooking in Jaisalmer uses ingredients that can survive desert heat. Try ker sangri, where locals cook dried desert berries with beans and spices. Gatte ki sabzi combines gram flour dumplings in a yogurt-based curry. In winter months, try haldi ki sabzi, where turmeric and yogurt create a warming curry served with flatbread.
