This ancient Khmer capital spans 9 square kilometers with towering stone gates, intricate Buddhist temples, and the iconic Bayon with its 216 carved stone faces.
Angkor Thum, meaning "Great City" in Khmer, is a 9-square-kilometer walled city in Cambodia. When you walk through its massive stone gates, you'll pass between rows of ancient stone figures - 54 demons and 54 gods - while 23-meter-high towers with carved faces watch over you. At the city's heart, the Bayon temple rises with its 216 enigmatic smiling faces, while nearby, life-sized elephants march across a 350-meter carved terrace. These 12th-century monuments lie within 8-meter-high walls, connected by ancient roads that once bustled with the daily life of the Khmer Empire's capital.
Getting to Angkor Thum
From Siem Reap town, take Charles de Gaulle Road northward until you reach Angkor Wat's moat. Continue past Angkor Wat, and you'll arrive at Angkor Thum's South Gate, the main entrance point for most visitors. The site sits 7.2 kilometers north of Siem Reap and 1.7 kilometers north of Angkor Wat's entrance. You can reach the site by tuk-tuk, bicycle, or as part of an organized tour. While no hotels exist within the Archaeological Park, Siem Reap puts you within easy reach of the ancient city.
Walking the Ancient City Walls
Each side of this square fortification stretches for 3 kilometers. You can walk along the top of the laterite walls, which rise 8 meters high, with earth supporting their base and a stone parapet running along the top. The moat extends 110 meters wide, with causeways crossing at each of the five gates. At each entrance, you'll find 108 stone figures - 54 demons on the right and 54 gods on the left - acting out scenes from Khmer mythology.
The Five Gates
The South Gate serves as the primary tourist entrance today. Each 23-meter tower displays four massive stone faces gazing toward the cardinal directions. If you want to avoid crowds, use the eastern Victory Gate, which once served as the entrance for military processions. All gates connect to ancient roads leading to the Bayon temple at the city's center.
Inside the City Walls
Ancient canals once flowed from northeast to southwest through the city. While the wooden homes of priests, palace officials, and military personnel have disappeared, you can still walk their original paths, now covered in forest. The stone monuments remain: climb the steep steps of the pyramid-shaped Baphuon temple, examine the three-meter-high elephant carvings on the terrace wall, or count the faces on Bayon's 54 towers. Each carved face measures 2.5 meters high and appears to watch you as you move through the temple.
Visiting Times and Duration
Begin your exploration before 8:00 AM to avoid temperatures that often exceed 35°C (95°F) by midday. Set aside at least 4 hours to see the main structures, though a full day allows time to study the intricate bas-reliefs and explore quieter corners of the city. Remember to purchase your Angkor Archaeological Park pass at the main entrance checkpoint before arriving at Angkor Thum.
