This historic riverside city, founded as a Russian fort in 1718, has grown into a major transport hub with railways and highways connecting Kazakhstan's regions.
Semey sits in eastern Kazakhstan beside the Irtysh River, shaped by Soviet history, literature, and the lasting effects of nuclear testing. The city changed its name from Semipalatinsk in 2007, but reminders of its past remain, including the Polygon test site where over 450 explosions occurred. You can visit the house where Fyodor Dostoevsky lived during his exile, now a museum displaying his letters and belongings. The Abai Museum highlights the life of the Kazakh poet Abai Kunanbaev, whose writings influenced the nation’s culture. Semey Medical University draws students from across the country, and the modern suspension bridge over the Irtysh River connects neighborhoods built during the Tsarist era with newer Soviet developments.
Key Museums and Historical Sites
Begin at the Museum of F. M. Dostoevsky, located in a wooden house from the 1800s. This museum holds original manuscripts, letters, and furniture from the author’s time in Semey during the 1850s. A 10-minute walk away, the Abai Museum displays traditional Kazakh instruments, rare editions of Abai’s poetry, and reconstructions of 19th-century nomadic life. On Lenin Street, the Local History Museum explains how Semey grew from a Russian military fort into a trading center, with exhibits on Silk Road artifacts and maps of nuclear test zones. Near the river, the stone walls of the 18th-century Semipalatinsk Fortress still stand, one of the few remaining structures from the city’s early days. Plan to spend at least two hours exploring these sites, as each provides distinct insights into the region’s past.
Understanding the Nuclear Testing Legacy
Between 1949 and 1989, the Soviet Union detonated hundreds of nuclear devices at the Semipalatinsk Test Site, 150 kilometers west of Semey. The Monument to the Victims of Nuclear Testing near the city center includes a concrete arch and a walkway engraved with the names of villages impacted by radiation. At Semey Medical University, the Anatomical Museum preserves medical specimens that document birth defects and illnesses linked to nuclear exposure. Licensed tour operators can take you to the Polygon’s ground zero, where twisted metal debris and concrete bunkers mark the test sites. Every August 29, the city hosts lectures and memorials to honor those affected and promote nuclear disarmament.
Bridges, Buildings, and Public Spaces
The Semey Bridge, stretching 750 meters across the Irtysh River, opened in 2000 and remains a key link between the city’s eastern and western districts. In the center, Tsarist-era merchant houses with ornate wooden carvings line Abai Street, many now housing cafes or shops. Victory Park contains Soviet-era monuments, including a statue of a soldier collapsing mid-battle and a wall listing local war casualties. Look for mosaics in post office buildings and schools that mix Kazakh floral patterns with images of workers and factories. The city’s wide streets follow the original grid layout of the 18th-century fortress, making navigation straightforward on foot.
Transportation Options
Semey’s train station has direct routes to Astana (14–17 hours) and Almaty (18–22 hours), with sleeper cars available. Flights from Semey Airport go to Astana, Almaty, and Moscow, though delays are common due to limited daily departures. Buses run along major streets, but taxis are cheaper and faster for reaching destinations like the Dostoevsky Museum or the nuclear monument. Walking is practical in the city center, where poplar trees provide shade in summer. To visit the Polygon or Kurchatov, book a driver through your hotel or join a group tour that handles permits and logistics.
Daily Life and Culture
Semey’s 350,000 residents include Kazakhs, Russians, Tatars, and Ukrainians, visible in the mix of languages heard at the Green Bazaar. This market sells kurt (dried cheese), horse sausages, and seasonal vegetables like potatoes and carrots adapted to the harsh climate. Students gather at Soviet-era cafes along Syrdarya Street for cheap laghman noodles and blini stuffed with cottage cheese. On weekends, families stroll the river promenade, where vendors sell ice cream even in winter. Economic challenges since Kazakhstan’s independence persist, but the city’s universities and activism against nuclear weapons foster a strong sense of community.
Trips Outside the City
Drive two hours northeast to Kurchatov, a closed town once managing the Polygon tests, now hosting radiation research institutes. Tours here include Atomic Lake, a crater formed by a 1965 underground blast, and abandoned military barracks near Chagan. West of Semey, the Irtysh River Valley has trails for hiking and spots for fishing pike or catfish, with rowboats available for rent in summer. In Znamenka, 80 kilometers south, elderly residents share stories of seeing mushroom clouds from their farms. Always secure permits for restricted zones at least a week ahead through local tour agencies.
