A mountain city at 3,050 meters altitude in the Andes, surrounded by snow-capped peaks of Cordillera Blanca. Base camp for treks to Laguna 69 and Pastoruri Glacier.
Huaraz sits at 3,052 meters in Peru’s Ancash region, surrounded by the snowy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. Many travelers use the city as a starting point for hikes in Huascarán National Park, a UNESCO site that includes Mount Huascarán, the highest tropical mountain. After a 1970 earthquake destroyed much of the area, Huaraz was rebuilt with low-rise buildings and streets lined with gear rental shops. You can hike to Laguna 69, a bright blue lake beneath Chakrarahu Peak, or explore stone structures left by the Wari people at Wilcahuain. From May to September, dry weather makes it easier to walk trails that pass waterfalls, hot springs like Monterrey, and valleys filled with wildflowers.
How to Reach Huaraz
Most people take buses from Lima, which take 8-9 hours and climb into the Andes. Night buses let you sleep during the ride and arrive by morning. A small airport in Anta, 20 kilometers from Huaraz, has occasional flights, but buses are more consistent. If you drive, follow the Pan-American Highway north from Lima before turning east into the Callejón de Huaylas valley. Roads can be rough, particularly between December and March when rain causes landslides.
Adjusting to High Elevation
Plan to spend your first two days in Huaraz getting used to the thin air. Walk slowly around the Plaza de Armas, where vendors sell wool hats and fresh fruit. Visit the Lord of Soledad Chapel to see its wooden carvings, or take a taxi to the Wilcahuain ruins to learn about pre-Inca history. Save harder hikes like Laguna Churup for later in your trip. Drink coca tea frequently and eat light meals to help your body adapt.
Best Hiking Routes
Laguna 69 requires a 5-hour uphill hike to 4,600 meters, crossing streams and grassy slopes where cows graze. The lake’s vivid blue water contrasts with the gray cliffs above it. Laguna Churup, closer to town, takes 3-4 hours and includes sections where you climb metal ladders. For multi-day trips, the Santa Cruz Trek covers 50 kilometers over four days, reaching 4,750 meters at Punta Union Pass. The Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit takes 10 days and circles peaks like Siula Grande, known from the book Touching the Void.
Visiting Huascarán National Park
The park covers 3,400 square kilometers and includes glaciers, high-altitude lakes, and rare plants. Buy a permit at the park office in Huaraz before entering; it lasts three weeks. Guided groups often visit Pastoruri Glacier, though its size has shrunk in recent decades. Look for Andean condors near Lake Llanganuco, two green lakes between Huascarán and Huandoy mountains. Follow park rules to avoid leaving trash or disturbing wildlife.
Where to Eat
José de la Mar Street has restaurants serving dishes like pachamanca—meat and potatoes cooked with hot stones in a pit—and llunca de gallina, a thick chicken soup. Street stalls sell humitas, sweet corn cakes wrapped in husks, and tamales filled with pork. In the Barranquito area, try craft beers made with local barley or herbs. Many cafes serve coca tea, which can help with altitude symptoms.
History and Culture
The Wilcahuain ruins, a short drive from Huaraz, have stone buildings from the Wari civilization built between 600-900 AD. Soak in the Monterrey Baths, hot springs surrounded by pine trees, after a long hike. The Regional Museum of Ancash in Huaraz displays carved stones from the ChavÃn culture and colonial-era religious art. On market days in villages like Carhuaz, you’ll find woven blankets and clay pots made using traditional methods.
Travel Advice
Bring warm clothing for cold nights and a waterproof jacket, even in the dry season. Book hikes with agencies that provide experienced guides, such as Huayhuash Expeditions. Buses to trailheads depart from Huaraz’s main terminal early in the morning. Agree on taxi prices before getting in. Heavy rain from January to March can make trails slippery or inaccessible. Some hostels offer free lodging if you help with chores or community projects.
Staying Safe
Headaches and nausea are common at high elevations—rest often and avoid alcohol. Drink bottled water and skip raw salads to prevent stomach problems. Keep your phone and money in a secure bag, especially in crowded areas. Guides reduce the risk of getting lost on remote trails. Check the weather before hiking; fog after noon can make paths hard to follow. Clinics in Huaraz treat minor injuries, but serious emergencies require transport to Lima.
