This small Slovenian town has Roman ruins, Gothic churches, and thermal baths. Its narrow streets host art festivals, while museums showcase local history.
Ptuj, Slovenia's oldest town, sits along the Drava River in the northeast of the country. This small city of around 18,000 residents contains centuries of history, from the 2nd-century Orpheus Monument to the 16th-century City Tower. Ptuj Castle watches over cobblestone streets lined with colorful buildings, while the annual Kurentovanje carnival keeps local traditions alive. Visitors can explore Roman ruins, sip wine in medieval cellars, or relax in thermal spas just outside the city center.
Exploring Ptuj's Center
As you walk through Ptuj's old town, you'll see buildings from various periods. In the central Slovenski trg square, look up at the pink-domed City Tower, built in the 16th century. A few steps away stands the Orpheus Monument, a Roman stone tablet from the 2nd century AD. Narrow lanes lead to Gothic churches like St. George's, Renaissance mansions, and Baroque houses. Stop by the Dominican Monastery, founded in 1230, which now houses a restaurant in its cellar.
Ptuj Castle
Perched on a hill above town, Ptuj Castle dominates the skyline. The current structure dates mostly to the 16th-17th centuries, though a fortress has stood on this strategic spot since Roman times. Inside, you'll find the Ptuj Regional Museum's collections. Exhibits cover local history, traditional costumes, musical instruments, and weapons. The Knights' Hall has a painted wooden ceiling from the 17th century. From the castle walls, you can see Ptuj's red rooftops and the Drava River valley.
Wine Culture
Ptuj sits amid Slovenia's oldest wine-growing region, with a tradition dating back to Roman times. At the Ptuj Wine Cellar, you can tour underground tunnels storing thousands of bottles. Some parts of the cellar complex date to 1239. Join a tasting to sample local varieties like Šipon and Ranina. In August, the Days of Poetry and Wine festival brings literary readings and wine tastings throughout town. For an unusual stay, book a night in a converted wine barrel room at the nearby Terme Ptuj resort.
Kurentovanje Carnival
Ptuj's most famous event is the annual Kurentovanje carnival held in February. This 10-day celebration marks the end of winter with parades of costumed figures called Kurents. These characters wear sheepskin outfits and masks with long red tongues, dancing through the streets while ringing cowbells. The tradition has roots in pagan fertility rituals. UNESCO recognized Kurentovanje as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2017. Outside carnival season, you can learn about Kurent customs at the castle museum's exhibit.
Getting There and Around
Ptuj is about 130 km northeast of Ljubljana. Driving takes around 1.5 hours, while buses make the trip in about 2 hours. The old town center is about 1 km across. To explore the surrounding wine country, you can rent a bike or join a guided tour. Ptuj serves as a good base for day trips to nearby Maribor or across the border to Austria's Southern Styria wine region.
Where to Stay
For a central location, try Hotel Mitra in a renovated 15th-century building. B&B Muzikafe offers unique rooms above a cafe and music venue. If you're on a budget, Hostel Sonce provides simple private rooms across the river. For a spa getaway, stay at the Terme Ptuj resort complex just outside town.
Local Flavors
Try Styrian cuisine at traditional gostilnas (inns) like Gostilna Ribič by the river. Order local specialties such as Haloze gibanica layered cake or dishes made with pumpkin seed oil. For modern fare in a historic setting, eat at Bistro Lük in the old Minorite Monastery. Sample wines at Kobal wine bar, which offers a selection from small local producers.
