Located on the Mekong River across from Laos, this Thai border town has a large morning market, Buddhist temples, and the Sala Keoku sculpture park with giant concrete statues.
Nong Khai stretches along Thailand's northeastern border with Laos, where the Mekong River turns gold at sunset and temple gates twist with serpent carvings. This town connects to Vientiane through the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, yet surprises visitors with its concrete giants at Sala Keoku Park, glowing river lights in October, and vendors crushing papaya salad near the water. Watch monks walk silently through streets at dawn or pedal past faded yellow buildings with wooden shutters, remnants of French colonial trade. Evenings bring grills smoking with sticky rice and crowds gathering at open-air markets. Unlike busier Thai cities, mornings here unfold slowly, with the river’s rhythm setting the day’s tempo.
Sala Keoku Sculpture Park: Mythical Figures in Concrete
Drive 15 minutes from Nong Khai’s center to find over 120 statues rising from the earth. A three-headed elephant lifting a human skeleton towers 25 meters high, surrounded by deities frozen in battle and monks merging with stone trees. Walk inside a hollow sphere etched with cosmic symbols, said to mirror the birth of existence. Lao spiritual leader Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat built these sculptures from 1978 until his death in 1996, blending Buddhist and Hindu teachings. His preserved body lies in a glass case near the entrance, flanked by rusted eyeglasses and handwritten notes.
The Mysterious Naga Fireballs of October
Every October, on the night of the full moon, people line the Mekong’s banks to see glowing spheres shoot upward from the water. These orange lights vanish quickly, leaving no trace. Local legends say river serpents called Phaya Naga create the fireballs, while researchers point to natural gas or bioluminescent organisms. During the same period, the Bun Bang Fai festival fills the area with longboat races, dancers in silk costumes, and stalls selling catfish grilled in banana leaves.
Wat Pho Chai Temple and the Fallen Stupa
Wat Pho Chai shelters a 16th-century golden Buddha statue smuggled from Laos during a 19th-century conflict. Devotees place lotus flowers and gold leaf at its base, drawn to the figure’s tilted head and jeweled crown. Three kilometers east, the broken top of Phrathat La Nong juts from the Mekong—all that remains of a 15th-century stupa swallowed by erosion. A new white stupa stands nearby, its bright surface contrasting with the river’s muddy flow. These sites reflect the shared spiritual history between Thailand and Laos.
Walking the Mekong Riverside and Evening Market
A paved path follows the Mekong for three kilometers, passing fishermen repairing nets and families selling grilled squid skewers. Restaurants along the route serve cold drinks and fried riverweed, with views of Laos across the water. As daylight fades, Khaem Khong Market emerges near the Naga Monument. Try spicy green papaya salad pounded in wooden mortars or fermented pork sausages sizzling on charcoal. Live bands play traditional Isaan music with reed pipes and drums, blending with the clatter of cooking pans.
Crossing the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge
Built in 1994, this 1.2-kilometer bridge replaced ferries as the main link between Nong Khai and Vientiane. Most travelers cross quickly for visas, but pause on the Thai side’s observation deck to see the Mekong’s broad curves. Plaques detail how Australian and Thai engineers collaborated on the steel structure. Remember: Cameras aren’t allowed on the bridge due to strict border controls.
Marching in the Anou Savari and July Candle Festivals
Mid-March brings the Anou Savari Festival, where locals reenact 19th-century battles against Chinese invaders using antique rifles and silk battle flags. In July, the Candle Festival marks Buddhist Lent with parades of carved wax sculptures. Artisans spend weeks shaping scenes from Buddha’s past lives into intricate designs, which temples display until the wax melts.
Phu Phra Bat Park: Ancient Art in Rock Formations
Travel two hours south by bus to explore Phu Phra Bat’s sandstone cliffs eroded into mushroom shapes. Discover Buddha images carved into alcoves 1,000 years ago and red handprints left by prehistoric communities. Stone staircases lead to Khmer-era shrines, while forest trails wind past chattering macaques. Wear sturdy shoes—the park’s paths include steep climbs and slippery rocks.
Reaching Nong Khai by Air, Train, or Road
Fly into Udon Thani Airport, then take a one-hour taxi ride to Nong Khai. Overnight trains from Bangkok offer sleeper cabins and dining cars, passing rice fields and villages during the 10-hour journey. Rent a bicycle near the train station to explore flat streets, or hire tuk-tuks for shorter trips. Check visa requirements before crossing to Laos—some nationalities pay fees at the bridge checkpoint.
