This small city in Rio Negro province is a regional agricultural center, known for its fruit production and annual Fiesta Nacional del Ternero (National Calf Festival).
Choele Choel, home to 10,000 people in RĂo Negro Province, occupies an island in the RĂo Negro River. Farmlands watered by irrigation systems and sandy river edges define its landscape. This town serves as a key distribution center for apples, pears, and tomatoes shipped across Argentina. You can watch Russian Old Believers craft traditional textiles, attend Lamarque’s February tomato festival with cooking demonstrations, or fish for dorado from small boats near river islands. The area’s history stretches from Mapuche settlements to its 1899-1900 stint as provincial capital, visible today in early 20th-century railway infrastructure and fruit processing plants operating alongside modern packing facilities.
Getting to Choele Choel and Regional Connections
National Route 22 and National Route 250 intersect near the town, connecting Atlantic beach towns like Las Grutas with Andean destinations such as Bariloche. Buses depart daily for Viedma (4 hours), NeuquĂ©n (5 hours), and other Patagonian cities from the terminal on Avenida San MartĂn. While commercial flights no longer use Choele Choel’s airport, private planes occasionally land at the 1,200-meter runway. You can reach Lamarque’s tomato festival grounds in 25 minutes by car via Provincial Route 250. Shared taxis provide transport to smaller villages like ChelforĂł, where farmers sell fresh produce directly from their fields.
History of Settlement and Conflict
Military commander Conrado Villegas founded the settlement in 1879 as part of Argentina’s campaign to control Patagonia, later renaming it using a Mapuche phrase referencing local flora. When floods destroyed much of Viedma in 1899, government offices temporarily relocated here, leaving behind administrative buildings near the current municipal square. The railroad’s 1900 completion enabled large-scale fruit exports – original steam engines are displayed near the disused tracks. At Lavadero de Oro, three kilometers north, you can still see stone basins where workers washed gold particles from river sediment until the 1930s. Older residents share stories about skirmishes between settlers and Mapuche groups during the town’s early decades.
Weather Patterns and Year-Round Visits
Temperatures average 7°C in July, with occasional frosts, and rise to 24°C in January. Snow rarely sticks for more than a day, but pack a warm jacket for winter mornings. Between October and November, orchards allow visitors to pick ripe apples and pears for a small fee. Summer brings swimmers and kayakers to Isla 92’s municipal campground, which has 50 shaded sites with fire pits. Anglers find the best fishing conditions in April, when dorado move into calmer backwaters. Always carry water – humidity stays below 40% most of the year.
Cultural Groups and Daily Practices
Approximately 200 Russian Old Believers near Choele Choel maintain 19th-century dress codes and operate a small chapel with handwritten liturgical texts. At Feria Franca market on Saturdays, Laotian vendors sell papaya salads alongside Italian-descended butchers offering llama chorizo. The town hosts RĂo Negro’s main rodeo event every March, where gauchos compete in ring races and calf roping. For handmade goods, visit Cooperativa AgrĂcola de Fruticultores to buy pear preserves or try syrniki pancakes at Casa Rusa bakery. Street names appear in both Spanish and Mapudungun, the Indigenous language taught in some local schools.
Exploring the RĂo Negro River and Surroundings
Six public access points along the river’s north bank provide entry for small boats and swimming. Local guides lead half-day fishing trips targeting silverside fish and occasionally shovelnose catfish. In Chimpay, 32 km east, pilgrims visit the Ceferino Namuncurá Sanctuary’s marble statue honoring the Mapuche lay brother. The Isla Los Alazanes hunting reserve requires permits for pursuing wild boar and red deer – ask at the tourism office for licensed outfitters. Between December and February, Pomona’s rose gardens peak with 120 varieties, including Patagonian-developed hybrids.
Farming and Food Production
Over 300 family farms grow strawberries, peaches, and industrial tomatoes using flood irrigation from the RĂo Negro. During January and February, AgroLĂşpulo lets visitors harvest hops for regional craft breweries. At Bodega San Gregorio, staff demonstrate century-old apple crushing techniques using wooden presses. Roadside kiosks sell seasonal items like quince cheese, walnut rolls, and sun-dried tomatoes packed in olive oil. The Valle Medio Dairy Route includes stops at cheesemakers producing aged goat gouda and fresh ricotta sold in reusable clay pots.
Services and Travel Tips
Three hotels near the bus terminal provide rooms starting at AR$25,000 per night, while riverside cabins cost AR$40,000. Hospital Dr. Artémides Zatti handles emergencies 24/7, with English-speaking doctors usually on day shifts. Campers can rent basic grills and buy firewood at the Isla 92 entrance gate. Most restaurants close by 11 PM except during summer festivals. Learn phrases like “¿Dónde está la parada de colectivos?” (“Where is the bus stop?”) as few residents speak English. Carry cash – credit cards work at hotels but rarely at markets or fuel stations.
