This coastal city in Bahia state is known for its cocoa farms and as the setting of Jorge Amado's novels. Its 1920s cathedral and colonial buildings line palm-fringed beaches.
In Ilhéus, a coastal city in Brazil's Bahia state, you can walk through streets where Jorge Amado set his famous novels, swim at Praia dos Milionários, and watch cocoa beans transform into chocolate at local farms. The city's 1920s Bar Vesúvio still serves drinks in the same spot where Amado's characters gathered, while the São Sebastião Cathedral rises above the colonial center with its white façade and twin towers.
Getting to Ilhéus
Jorge Amado Airport connects Ilhéus with daily flights to São Paulo, Salvador, and Belo Horizonte. The main bus terminal receives buses from Porto Seguro (6 hours) and Itacaré (2 hours). From Salvador, take a ferry to Bom Despacho, then catch a bus for a 7-hour journey to Ilhéus.
Moving Around
Local buses run throughout the city and reach most beaches and attractions. Uber and local taxis operate in all areas. A rental car will help you explore nearby towns and beaches independently.
Weather in Ilhéus
Temperatures stay between 23°C (73°F) and 26°C (79°F) year-round. Plan outdoor activities between August and January for less rain. February to July brings afternoon showers. Sea breezes keep the air moving and reduce humidity.
Jorge Amado's Literary Legacy
At Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado, you can see the writer's typewriter, books, and original manuscripts. Walk into Bar Vesúvio, where the wooden interior and ceiling fans maintain the 1920s atmosphere from Amado's novels like "Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon."
Beaches and Swimming
More than a dozen beaches line the city's coast. Swim in the calm waters of Praia dos Milionários, or watch surfers catch waves at Praia do Cristo, where a small Christ statue overlooks the beach. Back Door Beach becomes particularly active during surfing competitions.
Cocoa and Chocolate
At Fazenda Yrere, farmers demonstrate how they grow and harvest cocoa pods, ferment the beans, and create chocolate. The farm continues Ilhéus's long history as Brazil's primary cocoa port, with many local farms still producing and exporting cocoa beans today.
Colonial Architecture
Walk inside the white-walled São Jorge Church, built in the 1600s, or climb the twin towers of São Sebastião Cathedral for city views. The Bataclan, with its decorative façade and wrought-iron balconies, has transformed from a 1920s cabaret into a cultural center where you can see art exhibitions and performances.
