Located in Minas Gerais, this colonial town has preserved baroque churches from the 18th century and a working steam train that connects to Tiradentes.
São João del-Rei began in 1713 as a gold mining town in Minas Gerais. Walk along streets paved with uneven stones to see the São Francisco de Assis church, where sculptor Aleijadinho created detailed soapstone carvings. Each Friday at 10:00 AM, a working steam train departs from the station near the railway museum, its whistle echoing across the valley. During Easter, processions move through the streets with musicians playing 18th-century compositions on violins and oboes. The town sits between steep slopes covered with native Atlantic Forest, connected to Tiradentes by a rail line winding through the mountains.
Churches from the Gold Rush Era
Eighteenth-century churches dominate São João del-Rei's cityscape. At the São Francisco de Assis church, sunlight filters through blue-and-white tilework onto altars covered in gold leaf. Look for the winged angel holding a heart above the main doorway, carved by Aleijadinho around 1774. Five blocks east, the Catedral Basílica Nossa Senhora do Pilar displays a 300-pound silver monstrance in its upstairs museum. The Carmo church stands out with its curved entrance and ceiling paintings of biblical scenes framed by gilded wood. Along the Lenheiro River, three stone bridges from the 1700s still support ox carts and pedestrians.
Steam Train Ride to Tiradentes
Coal-fired steam engines pull vintage passenger cars between São João del-Rei and Tiradentes daily from Friday to Sunday. The journey takes 35 minutes each way, crossing narrow bridges and passing small farms with free-roaming cattle. Buy tickets at the station at least an hour before departure - seats fill quickly on weekends. After arriving in Tiradentes, you have 90 minutes to explore its compact center before the return trip. The railway museum in São João del-Rei's station displays original track-laying tools and a 1927 Baldwin locomotive you can climb into.
Festivals with Historical Roots
São João del-Rei holds Brazil's longest continuous Holy Week observance. On Good Friday, participants wear purple robes and carry life-sized statues through streets decorated with flower petals. In October, drum groups perform African-derived rhythms during the Rosário festival near the Carmo church. December's Immaculate Conception celebration includes firework displays launched from the riverbanks. Local musicians use handwritten scores from the 1700s kept in the cathedral archives. Many events end with vendors selling quentão, a hot drink made with cachaça and ginger.
Museums About Local History
The Tancredo Neves Memorial displays the former president's childhood bed, diplomatic gifts, and election campaign posters. At the railway museum, photographs show workers constructing tunnels through solid rock using only picks and dynamite. The sacred art museum inside the Catedral Basílica contains a processional cross made from 24 pounds of silver. For military history, visit the 1743 sobrado mansion near Mercês church, which details São João del-Rei's role in Brazil's independence movements. Most museums charge under R$10 admission and close Mondays.
