Situated between Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake, this former capital of Nanzhao Kingdom preserves its 1,000-year-old Three Pagodas and active Bai minority culture.
Dali, a city in China's Yunnan province, sits between Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake at 2,090 meters above sea level. In Dali Old Town, you'll walk past white-walled Bai minority houses with distinctive grey tile roofs. The Three Pagodas rise 70 meters into the sky, while along Erhai Lake's shore, fishermen in villages like Xizhou guide their cormorants to catch fish, continuing a practice from the 14th century.
Getting to Dali from Kunming
Several night trains run from Kunming to Dali between 8 PM and 11 PM, taking 6-8 hours. You can book tickets through Ctrip.com. Buses depart throughout the day from Kunming West Bus Station, with tickets costing 138-180 RMB for the 4-5 hour journey. When booking bus tickets, confirm that your bus stops at Dali Old City rather than New Dali to avoid additional transportation. The distance between New Dali and Old Dali is 13 kilometers, and a taxi ride costs around 30 RMB.
Exploring Erhai Lake by Bike
Rent an electric bike from shops in Old Dali for 50 RMB per day with a 100-200 RMB deposit and ID. The 30-kilometer route north along Erhai Lake winds through small villages and takes about 3-4 hours round trip. In Caicun Village, you'll find 300-year-old houses with intricate wooden carvings depicting dragons and phoenixes. At Bai Village, watch fishermen work with their cormorants in the early morning hours. Small tea houses and family-run restaurants appear every few kilometers, serving fresh fish and local tea varieties.
Weather and Seasons in Dali
At 2,090 meters elevation, Dali's temperatures remain consistent year-round. Pack layers for summer (7°C to 20°C) and winter (14°C to 23°C). Rain falls frequently from June to September, while October to February stays mostly dry. March to May brings the most sunshine and comfortable temperatures for outdoor activities, though early mornings can be chilly.
Markets and Food in Dali
Visit Xizhou's morning market from 7 AM to 11 AM daily. Local vendors sell fresh vegetables, fruits, and Xizhou Baba - a flatbread filled with red bean paste or minced pork that costs 5-8 RMB. The Three Course Tea ceremony starts with bitter tea, followed by sweet tea, and ends with a ginger-honey blend. In Dali Old Town's evening food street, try rice noodles (15-20 RMB), grilled Erhai Lake fish (30-40 RMB per fish), and seasonal mushroom dishes (25-35 RMB).
Where to Stay
Guesthouses in Dali Old Town cost 100-300 RMB per night, many with courtyards and views of Cangshan Mountain. Hotels near Erhai Lake range from 400-800 RMB and include breakfast. For longer stays, monthly apartment rentals in the old town start at 2000 RMB. Most accommodations accept WeChat Pay and Alipay, but smaller guesthouses might only take cash.
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