Pingyao

Pingyao, a walled city in central Shanxi Province, retains the streets and buildings of a traditional Han Chinese settlement from the Ming and Qing dynasties. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, its 14th-century walls enclose stone-paved lanes, family courtyards, and landmarks like Rishengchang Draft Bank, China’s first modern bank. You can walk the 6-kilometer wall circuit at sunset, visit the Ming-Qing Street shops selling lacquerware and vinegar, or examine clay sculptures at Shuanglin Temple. The city’s layout, unchanged for centuries, lets you experience daily life as it unfolded during China’s imperial era.

Walk the Ming Dynasty City Walls

Built in 1370, Pingyao’s 12-meter-high walls stretch 6 kilometers around the old town. Six gates and 72 watchtowers reflect defensive strategies from the Ming period. Climb the southern gate to see views of grey rooftops and narrow streets below. The walls’ turtle-shell design, with a head, tail, and four legs, earned the city its nickname. A combo ticket (125 RMB) includes access here and 30 other sites like the Ancient Government Office. For fewer crowds, visit early morning or an hour before sunset.

Discover China’s First Bank at Rishengchang

Rishengchang Draft Bank on West Street operated from 1823 to 1914, pioneering paper bank drafts that replaced risky silver transport. The museum displays original wooden counters, iron safes, and ledgers tracking transactions across Qing-era China. Nearby buildings once housed rival banks and security firms that guarded money transfers. This area fueled Pingyao’s reputation as a financial center, handling nearly half of China’s silver trade by the late 1800s. Guides explain how clerks used secret codes to prevent forgery.

Shop and Eat on Ming-Qing Street

South Street, the city’s busiest thoroughfare, retains its role as a commercial hub. Stone slabs line the 400-meter stretch, flanked by shops with carved eaves selling Pingyao beef, black vinegar, and hand-painted furniture. Climb the 18-meter City Tower near the street’s center to look over red lanterns and shop signs. After dark, vendors serve bowls of wantuo (sorghum noodles) topped with peanut sauce. Many stores close by 8:30 PM, so plan shopping and meals earlier.

See Clay Sculptures at Shuanglin Temple

Shuanglin Temple, 6 kilometers southwest of Pingyao, holds over 2,000 painted clay figures crafted between the 12th and 19th centuries. Artists shaped expressive faces and detailed clothing folds, such as the armored Skanda statue poised to strike. The Thousand Buddha Hall contains rows of seated figures with gold-leaf accents. Built during the Northern Wei Dynasty, the temple’s brick courtyards and pine trees contrast with the vivid sculptures inside. Use the combo ticket to also visit Zhenguo Temple, home to 10th-century wooden statues.

Try Shanxi Noodles and Beef Dishes

Local meals center on wheat: knife-shaved daoxiao mian noodles in broth, steamed kao laolao oat noodles, and cold wantuozi jelly with vinegar. Pingyao niurou, air-dried beef sliced thin, pairs well with the region’s acidic black vinegar. For a full meal, order braised pork with fried dough at a courtyard restaurant. Note that Shanxi dishes often use strong flavors like garlic and chili oil. Breakfast stalls near the city gates sell fried pancakes stuffed with scallions.

Attend the Pingyao International Photography Festival

Each September, the city hosts a month-long photography festival with exhibits in temples, courtyards, and public squares. Artists from over 30 countries display works on themes like rural life or urban development. In October, the Pingyao Festival Palace screens independent films in a converted machinery factory. During Lunar New Year, paper lanterns line the streets, and opera troupes perform stories from Chinese folklore. Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) provide mild temperatures for exploring.

Plan Your Visit: Tickets, Transport, and Stays

Buy the 125 RMB combo ticket at gates or official booths—it’s required to enter major sites. Stay in a family-run guesthouse inside the walls, many with brick courtyards and heated kang beds. High-speed trains connect Pingyao Gucheng Station to Beijing (4 hours) and Xi’an (3 hours). From Taiyuan Wusu Airport, take a taxi or bus (90 minutes). Allow two days to see the old town, temples, and nearby villages like Qiao Family Compound. Wear sturdy shoes for uneven stone paths.