A coastal town in northern Spain with a neo-Gothic palace, El Capricho villa designed by Gaudí, and a historic papal university set against the Cantabrian Sea.
Comillas, a small coastal town in Cantabria, is home to Antoni Gaudí's striking El Capricho villa, with its distinctive green and pink ceramic tiles and oriental-style tower. You'll find Gothic cemeteries, medieval squares with noble family crests, and the grand Sobrellano Palace among the narrow streets. The town sits between the Bay of Biscay's beaches and the dramatic peaks of Picos de Europa mountains.
El Capricho and Modernist Architecture
El Capricho, built in the 1880s as a summer villa, showcases Gaudí's early architectural style. Green and pink ceramic tiles cover the exterior walls, while wrought iron decorations frame the windows. A distinctive Mudejar-style minaret tower rises above the building. Inside, sunlight streams through carefully positioned windows, illuminating the innovative room layouts. Next door, the Sobrellano Palace displays neo-Gothic architecture with pointed arches, flying buttresses, and a chapel-museum containing 19th-century wooden sculptures and metalwork.
Medieval Town Center
Plaza del Corro de Campios anchors the medieval quarter, where stone mansions display carved family crests above their doorways. You'll find the 17th-century Church of San Cristóbal nearby, with its baroque altarpiece. Walking the cobblestone streets leads to Plaza de la Constitución, where the Old Town Hall displays five archbishops' coats of arms - giving Comillas its nickname "Villa de los Arzobispos" (Town of Archbishops).
The Gothic Cemetery
From its hilltop position, the Gothic Cemetery overlooks the town and sea. Stone walls enclose rows of marble tombs and sculptures, including the town's famous El Ángel Exterminador statue. The cemetery occupies the grounds of a former church, with views extending to the Bay of Biscay.
Beaches and Coastal Areas
The main beach stretches for 700 meters along the Bay of Biscay, with generally calm waters from June to September. Small fishing boats dock at the port, which once served as a whaling station. Walk to the Mirador de Santa Lucía for views of both the beach and the snow-capped Picos de Europa mountains.
Royal Connections and Town Development
In the late 19th century, Antonio López y López, the first Marquess of Comillas, invited King Alfonso XII to spend summers in the town. Wealthy families soon followed, commissioning Catalan architects to build their residences. The red-brick Pontifical University building, visible throughout town, dates from this period of expansion.
Getting Around
You can walk across the town center in about 15 minutes. Pick up free maps from the tourist office, which mark two routes: one for modernist buildings and another for medieval sites. While most attractions are within flat walking distance, reaching the university and cemetery requires climbing steep streets.
