This hilltop town in Valencia houses a medieval castle overlooking narrow stone streets and a 16th-century square. Its historic center dates back to Moorish times.
Xàtiva sits on Monte Vernissa, 70 kilometers southwest of Valencia, with sunlight reflecting off its castle walls, Gothic churches like the Collegiate Basilica, and streets from the Arab era. Walk past 13th-century fountains such as the Fuente de la Trinitat, explore the ruins of Europe’s first paper mill, and see the upside-down portrait of King Philip V in the Almodí Museum. The town’s stone paths lead to Xàtiva Castle, where you can trace Iberian, Roman, and medieval history across two hilltops. Two popes from the Borgia family were born here, and their influence lingers in palaces, frescoes, and carved coats of arms.
Xàtiva Castle: Stone Paths and Valley Views
Climb the stone paths to Xàtiva Castle, where Iberian walls merge with Roman and medieval structures across two peaks. The smaller Castillo Menor, built over Carthaginian ruins, links to the larger Castillo Mayor, expanded during Islamic rule. From the Torre del Sol tower, look toward the Albaida River valley, the Mediterranean Sea, and the town’s red-tiled roofs. Inside the castle grounds, the museum explains its role in the 18th-century War of Spanish Succession. Stop at La Talaia del Castell, a terrace restaurant serving baked rice dishes, before descending. The castle opens Tuesday to Sunday (10:00–18:00 in winter, 10:00–19:00 in summer); buy €6 tickets online to skip lines.
The Old Town: Churches, Fountains, and a Defiant Portrait
Explore the old town’s narrow lanes lined with Gothic-Mudéjar churches like Sant Pere, known for its Islamic-style wooden ceiling. Start at the Collegiate Basilica of Santa María, where bronze statues of Borgia popes Calixto III and Alexander VI stand at the entrance. Visit the Almodí Museum, housed in a 14th-century grain market, to see Roman mosaics and the upside-down painting of King Philip V. Local shops close between 13:30 and 16:30, so mornings are best for seeing the Royal Monastery of the Assumption or Sant Feliu church. Over 20 public fountains dot the area, including the 13th-century Fuente Real near Plaza de la Trinitat.
The Borgia Family: Popes and Political Influence
Two members of Xàtiva’s Borgia family became popes: Calixto III in 1455 and his nephew Alexander VI in 1492. Follow the Borja Route to their ancestral palace ruins on Carrer Montcada and the Sant Francesc Church, which retains frescoes from their era. The Casa de l’Ensenyament museum displays Borgia-era documents, including papal decrees and land deeds. Look for their coat of arms on the Fuente de la Trinitat, a Renaissance fountain near the Collegiate Basilica. The family’s rise and fall shaped local politics, culminating in King Philip V’s retaliation against the town in 1707.
When to Visit, How to Get There, and What to Eat
Summer temperatures here often reach 35°C, making spring or autumn better for hiking castle trails or visiting Cova Negra, a Paleolithic cave park 3 kilometers west. Trains from Valencia’s Cercanías C-2 line take one hour to reach Xàtiva. If driving, park at Parking Subida al Castillo and walk 20 minutes uphill, or take the Sunday tourist bus from Plaça Espanyolet. Order arròs amb fesols i naps, a rice dish with beans and turnips, at taverns near the old town. Finish with arnadí, a sweet pumpkin-and-almond pastry.
Annual Events: Fireworks, Motorcycles, and Nativity Scenes
The August Festival (14–20 August) includes fireworks, parades, and concerts commemorating Xàtiva’s resistance against Philip V. In late October, the Motorcycling Festival revives Spain’s oldest urban race, drawing riders to the original 1933 circuit route. From December to January, Plaza de la Trinitat hosts a life-size nativity scene with live animals and stalls selling handmade crafts. Check the tourism office’s app for guided walks on topics like Roman aqueducts or medieval paper-making techniques.
