This calm French town in Burgundy sits along the Yonne River, with a 15th-century clock tower, active wine markets, and a preserved Roman amphitheatre in its medieval center.
Auxerre, 150 km southeast of Paris, rises above the Yonne River with its three distinctive church spires. Walk through streets lined with 500 medieval houses, step into the Saint-Étienne Cathedral to see 13th-century stained glass windows glowing in deep blues and reds, or descend into Saint-Germain Abbey's Carolingian crypts to view France's oldest church frescos. Stop at local wine cellars to taste Chablis, bite into warm gougères pastries, or take a summer boat trip along the Nivernais Canal.
Exploring the Medieval Center
The old town of Auxerre contains over 500 wooden houses from medieval times, with many upper floors jutting out over narrow streets. Start your walk at the 15th-century Clock Tower, where you can read both solar time and lunar phases on its ochre-colored face. The pedestrian streets around Place Charles Lepère wind past half-timbered buildings housing small shops and cafes. Regular buses run every 15 minutes between the train station and the old town center.
Inside Saint-Étienne Cathedral
The cathedral dominates the skyline with its single tower and detailed Gothic stonework. Built between the 11th and 16th centuries, its ambulatory contains 32 original stained glass windows known for their intense blue and red colors. Walk down to the 11th-century crypt to see its medieval frescos, including an unusual depiction of Christ on horseback. The cathedral opens daily with free entry.
Saint-Germain Abbey and Ancient Crypts
The abbey complex spans multiple centuries, from the 9th-century Carolingian crypts to the 17th-century cloisters. Walk on elevated platforms above archaeological remains in the underground chambers to see France's oldest Christian church frescos, dating to 841-857. The abbey museum documents the building's history as a medieval learning center. Look for detailed information panels explaining the architectural elements throughout the complex.
Wine Tasting in Auxerrois
The surrounding vineyards produce Chablis, Irancy, and Saint-Bris wines. Visit Le Clos de la Chaînette, Burgundy's oldest vineyard within city walls. Local wineries open their cellars for tastings, especially during the Fleurs de Vigne festival when winemakers set up stands along the riverbank. Get wine route maps and winery contact details from the tourist office.
Along the Yonne River
Cycle or boat along the Yonne River and Nivernais Canal from spring through fall. Rent bikes at Maison du VĂ©lo to explore the canal towpath, or join guided boat trips on the waterways. Walk through the Marine Quarter's narrow lanes where water carriers, boatmen, and merchants lived in the 16th and 17th centuries, when river trade peaked.
Local Food Specialties
Try traditional Burgundian dishes in Auxerre's restaurants and markets. Look for gougères, cheese-filled choux pastries, served as appetizers in most restaurants. Shop at the morning markets on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays for Burgundy wines, regional cheeses, and seasonal produce. During June and July, cherry vendors set up stands near the villages of Jussy and Irancy.
