Saint-Malo

Saint-Malo, a fortified port city on France's Brittany coast, is known for its granite ramparts, tidal islands, and rich seafaring past. You can climb the city walls for panoramic sea views, explore the tomb of writer Chateaubriand on Grand Bé island, or savor fresh oysters and buttery kouign-amann pastries. The old town, with its restored 18th-century mansions, invites you to step back in time and imagine life during Saint-Malo's privateering heyday.

Exploring the Walled City

Saint-Malo's old town, known as Intra-Muros, lies within imposing granite ramparts that have protected the city for centuries. You can walk the full 2-kilometer circuit atop the walls, taking in views of the sea and beaches below. Within the walls, navigate narrow lanes like Rue de la Corne de Cerf or Rue de Dinan, lined with tall townhouses built by wealthy ship owners and merchants. Many buildings are faithful reconstructions, as much of Saint-Malo was destroyed during World War II and rebuilt in the 1950s and 60s.

Beaches and Tidal Islands

The beaches around Saint-Malo offer more than just sunbathing. At low tide, you can walk out to several small islands, each with its own appeal. The tomb of French writer Chateaubriand sits atop the rocky Grand Bé island. On Petit Bé, you'll find a 17th-century fort designed by Vauban, the military engineer of Louis XIV. Check tide times carefully before venturing out, as the sea here rises and falls by up to 13 meters. The main city beach, Plage du Sillon, stretches for 3 kilometers and has a seawater swimming pool that fills at high tide.

Local Cuisine

Saint-Malo is an excellent place to sample Breton specialties. Try a savory galette (buckwheat crepe) filled with ham, cheese and egg at a traditional crêperie like La Tourelle. For dessert, taste kouign-amann, a rich, buttery pastry originating in nearby Douarnenez. You can enjoy fresh oysters from nearby Cancale or a pot of moules-frites (mussels and fries) at a restaurant like Le Chalut. Local cider or Lambig apple brandy are typical drink choices.

Day Trips from Saint-Malo

Saint-Malo serves as a base for exploring other parts of Brittany. The island abbey of Mont Saint-Michel lies 50 kilometers east and can be reached by bus or guided tour. The medieval town of Dinan, 30 kilometers south, has well-preserved half-timbered houses and winding streets. You might enjoy a boat trip to the Chausey Islands, an archipelago of 365 islets at low tide, or a walk along the granite coast near Perros-Guirec, known for its pink-hued rocks.

Getting There and Around

You can reach Saint-Malo by train, with direct TGV services from Paris taking about 3 hours. The city also has ferry links to Portsmouth and Poole in England, and to the Channel Islands. Within Saint-Malo, most sights are within walking distance, but a tourist train offers tours of the old town. Buses and boats connect Saint-Malo to nearby towns and beaches. Renting a car allows for independent exploration of the wider region.

Maritime History and Privateers

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Saint-Malo grew wealthy through privateering - state-sanctioned piracy against enemy ships. The city's most famous privateer, Robert Surcouf, captured over 40 ships and amassed a fortune before retiring to a grand mansion at 5 Rue d'Asfeld. You can learn more about this period at the city museum housed in the castle. Saint-Malo was also the home port of Jacques Cartier, who claimed Canada for France in 1534. His voyages are commemorated in a small museum in his former manor house just outside the city walls.