This calm fishing village on Dugi Otok island has a 12th-century church and active fish market. Local fishermen still mend nets along its stone waterfront.
On the northeastern coast of Croatia’s Dugi Otok island, Sali is a village where stone houses cluster around a harbor filled with fishing boats. Walk through streets lined with 17th-century churches marked by ancient Glagolitic carvings. Swim in Mir, a saltwater lake within Telašćica Nature Park, or watch the Donkey Race festival in August, where residents race decorated animals to brass music played on pots and pans. Explore Saharun Beach’s white sand or follow trails through olive groves where some trees date back to the 1300s. With ferry connections to Kornati National Park and a population of 740, Sali feels quiet most of the year but fills with energy during summer festivals.
Telašćica Nature Park and Kornati National Park
Telašćica Nature Park, a 15-minute drive from Sali, covers 70 km of coastline with steep cliffs, quiet bays, and the saltwater lake Mir. The lake stretches 900 meters and reaches depths of 6 meters, separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land. Cliffs here rise over 160 meters above the water, creating dramatic views. Boat trips from Sali’s harbor often include stops at both Telašćica and Kornati National Park, where you’ll see islands shaped by wind and salt into sharp limestone ridges. Divers can investigate underwater caves near the parks, spotting moray eels and schools of sardines.
Beaches and Swimming Areas
Saharun Beach, on Dugi Otok’s northern tip, has soft sand and clear water less than a meter deep near the shore. Closer to Sali, flat rocks and concrete platforms along the coast provide easy access to the sea. Follow the path west of the harbor through pine trees to reach small pebble beaches like Pod Oštro. For quieter spots, take a 30-minute hike to Brbinj Bay or rent a boat to reach Magrovica Beach in Telašćica, shaded by wild fig trees. Bring snorkeling gear to explore underwater rocks near Veli Žal, where small fish gather around seaweed.
Historic Churches and Olive Groves
The Parish Church of St. Mary, built in the 1600s, stands at the highest point of Sali with a wooden altar carved with scenes from the Bible. Down the hill, the Church of St. Roch hosts evening music performances in July and August. Near the water, the stone Church of St. Nicholas once served as a lookout for pirate ships. Inland, scattered stone walls and old olive trees in Saljsko polje trace back to the Venetian era—some trunks twist into unusual shapes after centuries of growth. Archaeologists have found remnants of 10th-century chapels in fields near Čuh, marked by simple stone foundations.
Summer Festivals and Local Traditions
During the first week of August, Sali’s Donkey Race festival fills the streets with music played on homemade instruments like metal washboards and buckets. The night before the race, locals compete to make the best fish stew at Fishermen’s Evening, serving dishes on the waterfront. From June to September, Thursday nights feature events like open-air theater near the old school or oyster tastings with wine. Don’t miss the klapa singing performances, where groups harmonize traditional Dalmatian songs a cappella.
Biking, Hiking, and Water Activities
Rent a bicycle in Sali to ride along Dugi Otok’s main road, passing abandoned stone houses and the ruins of a Roman villa near Mala Proversa. Kayak around Telašćica’s small islands, or join a diving tour to see the wreck of the Taranto, a coal ship sunk in the 1800s. Walk the 12-km Dugi Otok Trail from Sali to Telašćica, stopping at viewpoints overlooking Kornati’s islands. For a shorter trip, fish off the harbor wall or take a guided tour to Žman village’s 16th-century tower, built to defend against Ottoman raids.
Where to Eat and Essential Services
Order grilled squid or cuttlefish risotto at Konoba Kornat, a waterfront restaurant using fish caught that morning. At Tamaris, near the church, try lamb cooked under a metal bell with potatoes and herbs. Sali has a small grocery store, a post office, and an ATM near the main square. The medical clinic handles minor injuries, but serious cases require a ferry to Zadar. Overnight boat mooring in the harbor costs around €30 for a 12-meter vessel, including access to water and power. Ferries from Zadar run multiple times daily, with faster catamarans available in summer.
