A coastal city with colonial Portuguese buildings, art deco architecture, and Mozambique's second-largest port. The streets reflect its role as a major trade hub.
Beira, Mozambique's second-largest city, sits where the Pungwe and Búzi rivers meet the Indian Ocean. Walk past faded Mediterranean-style buildings with cracked plaster, rusted ship parts along the riverbanks, and the abandoned Grande Hotel—a 1950s luxury resort now housing families in its crumbling rooms. Visit the Municipal Building near the central square to see tile murals of Sofala Castle, or step inside the Cathedral of Beira where sunlight filters through stained glass onto worn wooden benches. Vendors at Mercado Central sell carved wooden figures made by Makonde artisans, and fishermen repair nets near the ferry docks. Though Cyclone Idai flooded much of the city in 2019, repairs continue on railways that connect Beira to Zimbabwe and Malawi.
Colonial History and Modern Challenges
Portuguese settlers established Beira in 1891 as a trading post for the Mozambique Company, replacing an older Swahili-Arab settlement. You can still see traces of this era in the Praça do Metical square, where colonial-era bank buildings with cracked facades house modern shops. The Cathedral of Beira, finished in 1925, uses stones taken from the ruins of Fort of Sofala, a Portuguese garrison swallowed by coastal erosion. During the 1977-1992 civil war, soldiers from Zimbabwe guarded the railway to keep goods moving to landlocked neighbors. Bullet marks on buildings near the port and the empty Grande Hotel, with its cracked swimming pool and overgrown gardens, reflect decades of conflict and storms.
What to See and Do
Begin your visit at Praça do Metical, the central square bordered by the Municipal Building’s marble columns and murals of 16th-century forts. Walk 15 minutes southeast to the Cathedral of Beira, where locals gather for Sunday Mass under peeling white walls and faded blue ceilings. Head north along the coast to Praia de Macuti, a sandy stretch where kids play soccer near the red-and-white Macuti Lighthouse and the rusted hull of a grounded cargo ship. Spend an afternoon at Chiveve River Park, where workers planted mangroves after Cyclone Idai and built raised walkways above tidal marshes. For a different perspective, explore the Grande Hotel’s decaying Art Deco halls, now home to over 3,000 residents who’ve turned ballrooms into makeshift apartments.
Weather and Travel Seasons
Heavy rains fall from November to April, with January temperatures reaching 28°C. Cyclones most often hit between January and March—in 2019, Idai’s floods destroyed roads and homes across the city. Plan trips between May and October for dry days with highs around 25°C, easier for walking tours or beach visits. Lightweight cotton clothes work best, but carry a waterproof jacket if visiting in May or November.
Moving Around the City
Beira International Airport has daily flights to Johannesburg and Maputo. Shared minibuses known as chapas depart from Mercado Central for cities like Chimoio (3 hours) or Vilankulo (7 hours). The EN6 highway from Zimbabwe has uneven pavement and occasional potholes; drive slowly and avoid nighttime travel due to stray animals on the road. Ferries leave twice daily from the port to Nova Sofala, and a slow passenger train runs weekly from Moatize near Tete. Taxis charge fixed rates for trips within the city—agree on the price before getting in.
Local Meals and Dining Spots
Order garlic-marinated prawns or steak in cream sauce at Restaurante Macuti, a family-run spot with checkered tablecloths near the lighthouse. At Solange Café on Avenida Eduardo Mondlane, try wood-oven pizzas or grilled chicken with fries under hanging lanterns. Grab a prego steak sandwich from Chipima’s Burguer stand across from the market, where cooks press bread on a sizzling grill. Sip a Laurentina beer at Beira Bar’s waterfront deck as the sun dips below the horizon, or sample spicy cashews from vendors outside the ferry terminal.
Rebuilding After Disaster
Workers completed Chiveve River Park in 2021 as part of a flood-control project funded by international aid groups. They dug drainage canals in neighborhoods like Mungassa and planted 12,000 mangrove saplings to reduce storm damage. Local committees meet monthly to update evacuation maps and test emergency sirens installed after Idai. The city’s long-term plan includes expanding sewers and building seawalls, though many families still live in tin-roof shacks without running water.
Staying Safe
Keep phones and wallets in front pockets when walking through crowded areas like Mercado Central or the chapa terminals. Avoid the dimly lit streets near the port after sunset, and take registered taxis for evening rides. Lock passports in hotel safes and carry photocopies instead. During rainy season, listen for cyclone warnings broadcast on Radio Moçambique and follow instructions to reach shelters like Mungassa Primary School.
Day Trips from Beira
Ride a chapa 30 km north to Savanna Beach, where boatmen charge 50 meticais to paddle visitors across a saltwater channel to swim in calmer waters. Book a guided safari at Gorongosa National Park, 200 km west, to spot elephants grazing near watering holes or lions resting under acacia trees. Families often picnic at Six Miles resort’s artificial lake, 10 km inland, renting paddleboats shaped like swans. Adventurous travelers can hire a guide in Dondo to explore limestone caves with underground pools, 40 km northwest of the city.
