Xai-Xai

Xai-Xai, the capital of Gaza Province in southern Mozambique, lies near where the Limpopo River meets the Indian Ocean. This city of over 116,000 people, formerly called João Belo until 1975, balances farming areas with coastal areas. Snorkel around the coral reef at Xai-Xai Beach 12 kilometers east, swim in the Wenela Tidal Pool’s tunnel-shaped connection to the ocean, or browse wooden furniture made under cashew trees in open-air markets. A new airport built in 2021 makes arrivals easier, though daily life here still revolves around fishing nets, crop fields, and Tsonga community practices. You’ll find fresh cashews sold in the markets and fishermen repairing boats along the riverbanks.

Xai-Xai Beach: Coral Reef Snorkeling and Rock Pools

Drive 20 minutes east from Xai-Xai’s center to reach the main beach, where a coral reef protects the shoreline from waves. The reef creates calm water up to 3 meters deep, letting you see striped angelfish and blue parrotfish through your snorkel mask. At low tide, a long rock pool emerges near the shore—families often wade here to collect shells or watch small crabs. Reef Resort and other beach lodges rent snorkeling gear and lead guided trips to the reef’s best spots. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, as the midday sun reflects strongly off the water.

Wenela Tidal Pool’s Ocean Tunnel and Rock Formations

Two kilometers south of the city, the Wenela Tidal Pool connects to the ocean through a narrow tunnel cut into coastal rocks. When tides rise, seawater rushes through this passage, creating swirling currents and occasional sprays. Explore the pool’s edges at mid-tide to find starfish clinging to rocks and tiny fish darting between tide pools. The surrounding black basalt rocks get slippery; wear shoes with firm grip. Guides recommend visiting two hours before high tide to see water surging through the tunnel.

Central Market and Cashew Tree Workshops

Xai-Xai’s main market fills with vendors selling pineapples, sacks of rice, and smoked fish hung on strings. Walk five minutes west to find carpenters carving stools and bed frames from jambire wood under wide cashew tree canopies. These craftsmen work without power tools, using hand planes and chisels to shape each piece. You can buy a small wooden bowl for about 500 meticais ($8 USD) or negotiate for larger items like dining tables. Don’t miss the roasted cashew stalls—workers crack shells onsite and sell warm batches wrapped in newspaper.

Tsonga Community Sites and Guided Visits

Villages near Xai-Xai, including Chilaulene and Zongoene Sede, preserve Tsonga customs like drum ceremonies honoring ancestors. The Chirindzene Sacred Forest, managed by the Matavel family, holds burial grounds and meeting spaces used for initiation rituals. To visit, contact a local lodge to arrange a guide and obtain permission from village elders. Wear modest clothing and avoid photographing people without asking. These visits demonstrate how families maintain ties to their ancestors through specific trees, hills, and water sources.

Reaching Xai-Xai: Flights and Road Access

Drive three hours north from Maputo on the EN1 highway to reach Xai-Xai—the paved road has few potholes but occasional livestock crossings. The city’s airport operates weekly LAM Mozambique Airlines flights from Maputo; charter planes can land here with prior notice. Rent a car in town to explore beaches independently, as taxis mainly serve fixed urban routes. Coastal roads to Bilene or Chidenguele often require 4x4 vehicles after rains—ask your hotel staff about current conditions before departing.

Day Trips to Bilene Lagoon and Chidenguele Dunes

Head 90 kilometers south to Bilene, where a 15-kilometer lagoon fills with seawater through a narrow inlet. Try kitesurfing in the steady afternoon winds or take a boat ride to watch flamingos wade in shallow areas. North of Xai-Xai, Chidenguele’s freshwater lake sits between tall dunes you can climb for views of the coast. Local farmers near the Limpopo River grow rice in irrigated fields—some offer walking tours explaining traditional planting methods. Combine these stops to experience different parts of Gaza Province’s coastline in 2-3 days.