Whitewashed buildings with blue doors line the hilltop streets of this Mediterranean village, known for its traditional Tunisian crafts and local mint tea shops.
In Sidi Bou Said, 20 kilometers north of Tunis, white buildings with blue doors and windows line the streets that climb up from the Mediterranean Sea. You'll find local artists working in their studios, smell fresh bambalouni doughnuts from street vendors, and hear the clinking of mint tea glasses at Café des Nattes. From the cliff-top terraces, you can look across the Gulf of Tunis while listening to live Arab music performances at the Ennejma Ezzahra palace.
Walking the Streets
The narrow streets of Sidi Bou Said wind uphill from the train station through rows of whitewashed buildings with blue doors and window frames. Look for the metal studs on doorways, arranged in circles and star patterns, and wooden balconies covered with pink bougainvillea flowers. Visit early morning before 9 AM to walk the quiet streets and photograph the architecture without tour groups.
Ennejma Ezzahra Palace
Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger built this clifftop palace in 1921. Inside, you'll see cedar wood ceilings with geometric patterns, walls covered in hand-carved plasterwork, and corridors lined with marble columns. The palace now functions as the Centre des Musiques Arabes et Méditerranéennes, where you can examine historical musical instruments and attend evening concerts of classical Arab music.
Art Studios and Workshops
Artists have worked in Sidi Bou Said since the 1920s, including German painter Paul Klee and French writer André Gide. Walk along the main street to watch craftspeople making ceramics and painting in their open workshops. Small galleries display contemporary Tunisian paintings and sculptures, with many artists working on-site.
Cafes and Local Food
At Café des Nattes, sit on cushions at low tables while drinking mint tea or Arabic coffee. The café's terrace looks out over the town's white rooftops to the sea. Street vendors throughout town sell bambalouni (round doughnuts dusted with sugar) and makroudh (date-filled semolina cookies). Restaurants in the old town cook Tunisian dishes like salade tunisienne - a mix of tuna, olives, eggs, and spicy harissa sauce.
Getting There and Best Time to Visit
Trains depart every 15 minutes from Tunis Marine station, reaching Sidi Bou Said in 35 minutes. Plan your visit during spring (March-May) or autumn (September-November) when temperatures stay around 20-25°C (68-77°F), making it comfortable to explore the steep streets. Local families fill the town on weekends, and summer afternoons can reach 35°C (95°F).
