This Andean town at 2,500 meters altitude has preserved its pre-Inca ruins, adobe houses, and local craft markets. The Pucará fortress overlooks the Humahuaca Valley.
Tilcara sits at 2,500 meters in Argentina's northwestern Jujuy province, in the Quebrada de Humahuaca valley. You can climb to the Pre-Inca Pucará fortress, hike through red canyons to the Devil's Throat waterfall, or browse the daily market where locals sell hand-woven textiles and carved wooden figures. The surrounding mountains change color throughout the day, from deep reds to soft purples, while restaurants in the center serve regional dishes like locro stew and corn empanadas.
Walking Through Ancient Fortifications
The Pucará fortress sits on a hill one kilometer from town. From its stone walls, you can see the entire valley below - the same view that helped the Omaguaca tribe spot approaching travelers in the 12th century. Walk through the reconstructed living quarters and storage rooms, then visit the archaeological museum to see pottery and tools found at the site. The botanical garden contains more than 30 species of local cacti, including the tall cardón that grows up to 10 meters high.
Hiking to Devil's Throat Waterfall
To reach the Devil's Throat (Garganta del Diablo), follow the marked trail starting at the bridge east of town. The path leads through a landscape of red rocks and desert shrubs before entering a narrow canyon where water cascades down 20 meters. The hike takes about three hours round trip and involves some steep sections. Start before 9 AM to avoid hiking in the intense sun, and carry at least 2 liters of water per person.
Exploring the Quebrada de Humahuaca
The Quebrada de Humahuaca valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site, extends north and south of Tilcara. Take a 20-minute bus ride to Purmamarca to see the Hill of Seven Colors, where iron, copper, and other minerals have created distinct colored layers in the rock face. Continue north for an hour to Humahuaca, where you can walk to viewpoints overlooking the Hill of Fourteen Colors, with its bands of red, white, and ochre stretching across the mountainside.
Local Food and Markets
Food vendors gather daily at the market near Plaza Sergento Antonino Peloc, selling empanadas, tamales, and fresh cheese. The surrounding streets have several small restaurants where you can try local dishes made with llama meat, quinoa, and native corn varieties like morocho and capia. In the evening, follow the sound of charangos and drums to find peñas - casual venues where musicians play folk songs while people eat and drink.
Getting Around
Buses run regularly between Tilcara and Salta (3 hours) or San Salvador de Jujuy (2 hours). Local buses connect towns throughout the valley every 30-60 minutes during daylight hours. While buses reach most main sites, renting a car makes it easier to visit places like the Salinas Grandes salt flats, a vast white expanse at 4,170 meters above sea level, where few buses go.
