This small city in Herzegovina sits along the Neretva River, with the 15th-century Počitelj fortress nearby and Mediterranean climate ideal for growing citrus fruits.
Čapljina, a town in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina, lies along the Neretva River 20 kilometers from the Adriatic Sea. Walk past the bronze statue of King Tomislav in the main square, then continue to the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi with its pale stone walls and tall bell tower. The Neretva flows south toward the sea, passing Hutovo Blato Park where 240 bird species nest in marshes, and Počitelj’s medieval stone houses cling to a hillside. Herons no longer gather here as they once did, but their presence lives on in the town’s name. Discover Roman ruins, family-run farms growing pomegranates and figs, and quick access to both Croatian coastal towns and Bosnian mountain landscapes.
What to See in Čapljina
Begin at the main square dominated by King Tomislav’s statue, honoring Croatia’s first medieval ruler. Walk three minutes west to reach the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi, where sunlight filters through arched windows onto white interior walls. Nearby, a park with benches surrounds a monument to Ivo Ducic, a poet born here in 1871. Look for the town’s coat of arms near municipal buildings – it shows the Croatian checkerboard shield, Počitelj’s stone tower, and an image of Saint Francis. Join residents on Friday mornings when vendors sell homemade cheese, wool blankets, and fresh fish at the weekly market beside the river.
Hutovo Blato Park and Water Activities
Hutovo Blato, 15 kilometers southwest, protects marshes and lakes teeming with birds. Watch gray herons stalk fish in shallow waters and spot ospreys diving near Deransko Lake. Rent kayaks at the park entrance for 15 euros per hour to paddle through narrow channels lined with reeds. The Neretva River feeds these wetlands while also watering orchards where farmers grow lemons and grapes. Borrow free bicycles from the Čapljina tourist office to ride flat trails past vineyards, stopping to sample figs sold at roadside stands.
Exploring Počitelj Village
Drive 10 minutes north to reach Počitelj, where stone houses climb a steep hill above the Neretva. Pass through the arched gate to see the Hajji Alija Mosque, rebuilt after wartime damage, and a stone clock tower from the 1600s. Climb 200 steps to Sahat-Kula fortress for views of the river cutting through limestone cliffs. Workers restored many buildings after UNESCO added the village to its endangered list in 1996. Buy handmade copper jewelry from artisans’ workshops before crowds arrive in late morning.
Meals and Local Products
Order grilled carp or trout at riverside restaurants, caught daily from the Neretva. At Konoba Calipso near the town center, try stuffed peppers filled with minced beef and rice, served with homemade bread. Three wineries within 8 kilometers let you taste Žilavka white wines made from grapes grown in rocky soil. Shop at the morning market for olive oil pressed from trees near Medjugorje or orange-blossom honey from local beekeepers.
Crossing Borders and Transportation
Reach Croatia’s Adriatic coast in 30 minutes by car via the Ploče border crossing. From Ploče’s port, ferries run daily to Korčula and Lastovo islands between April and October. Visit Metković’s Neretva Delta Museum on the Croatian side to see models of traditional fishing boats. Check event schedules for the Čapljina Speedway, which hosts motorcycle races on its 3.8-kilometer track from spring through fall. Catch buses outside the post office to Mostar (1 hour) or Dubrovnik (2 hours) for under 10 euros.
Festivals and Craft Traditions
Watch the Kolo folk dance performed by HKUD Čapljina during the July summer festival near the riverbank. On October 4th, follow candlelit processions honoring Saint Francis from the church through the town center. Visit the village of Višići to see blacksmiths shaping metal tools over coal fires using methods unchanged for centuries. In Gabela, 12 kilometers east, women demonstrate how to weave wool rugs on wooden looms every Tuesday afternoon.
