This former capital of medieval Bosnia sits along the Vrbas River, with Ottoman-style wooden houses and the historic Travnik Fortress marking its skyline.
In central Bosnia, 90 kilometers west of Sarajevo, Travnik was once the seat of Ottoman governors. You'll find a 14th-century hilltop fortress, two clock towers from the 1800s, and restaurants built on wooden platforms over the crystal-clear Plava Voda spring. The town lies between steep mountains, with the 1,943-meter Vlašić peak rising to the north.
Getting to Travnik
Buses run from Sarajevo's Main Bus Station to Travnik every 90 minutes, with the journey taking about two hours. You can also drive there in under two hours, following the M5 highway through mountain valleys and past small villages.
Exploring the Ottoman Center
Walk between Travnik's two clock towers - the only pair in any Bosnian town - along the stone-paved streets. The Sulejmanija Mosque's alternating light and dark stone stripes catch your eye, while merchants sell traditional goods in the bazaar at its base. Stop at the Hadži Ali-bey Mosque to find the 1886 sundial on its southwestern wall.
Travnik Fortress
The 14th-century fortress sits on a hill above town, with exhibits covering 600 years of local history. From the fortress walls, you can see the entire valley and the red-tiled roofs of Ottoman-era houses below. The exhibition rooms document the fortress's changes from a medieval stronghold to an Ottoman military base.
Food and Markets
Travnik's ćevapi makers use specific cuts of beef and lamb, grilling the meat over charcoal before serving it in fresh somun bread. On Vlašić Mountain, shepherds still make white cheese in wooden barrels using centuries-old methods. You'll find both the cheese and ćevapi in restaurants near the old town and along Plava Voda spring.
Plava Voda and Mount Vlašić
The Plava Voda creates a clear stream through the center, where you can eat at restaurants built on wooden decks above the water. In winter, ski runs operate on Mount Vlašić, while summer brings hikers to its marked trails. Visit the mountain's shepherd settlements to watch traditional cheese-making in wooden mountain huts.
Museums and Literary Heritage
The Ivo Andrić Museum occupies the Nobel Prize winner's childhood home, displaying his personal items, manuscripts, and photographs. At the Regional Museum, you can examine archaeological artifacts from Roman times through the Ottoman period, along with exhibits of local crafts and traditional tools.
