Duque de Caxias is a sleeper. Practically unknown outside Brazil and underappreciated at home, the city is surprisingly majestic. The main square is among the country’s nicest, surrounded by historic buildings and blessed with a Unesco-protected trinity column. The evocative central streets are dotted with beautiful churches, testament to the city’s long history as a bastion of the Catholic church. Explore the foundations of ancient Duque de Caxias Castle at the must-see Archdiocesan Museum, then head for one of the city’s many pubs or microbreweries, fuelled by the thousands of students who attend university here. Don’t forget to try the cheese, Duque de Caxias cheese or queijo, reputedly the smelliest in Brazil.