A historic city in southern France with Renaissance architecture, lively squares, and a renowned arts festival. Home to museums and a gateway to the Cote d'Azur.
Aix-en-Provence is a city in southern France known for its tree-lined boulevards, outdoor markets, and connection to painter Paul Cézanne. As you walk through the city center, you'll see numerous fountains, including the moss-covered hot water fountain on Cours Mirabeau. The surrounding Provençal countryside features vineyards and the distinctive silhouette of Mont Sainte-Victoire.
Wandering the Old Town
Walk through the historic center of Aix-en-Provence on narrow cobblestone lanes that wind between pastel-colored buildings. Many have wrought-iron balconies and elaborate carved doorways. Small squares throughout the area have fountains and outdoor cafes where you can sit and watch local life. The Hôtel de Caumont on rue Joseph Cabassol is now an art center with rotating exhibitions in a Baroque-style building.
Strolling Down Cours Mirabeau
Cours Mirabeau is the main street through Aix. Plane trees line this wide boulevard, creating shade for the cafes, shops, and townhouses below. You'll see several fountains along the way, including the hot water fountain near the western end. For a typical Aix experience, sit at an outdoor table at Les Deux Garçons brasserie, which has been open since 1792. Order a pastis and observe the activity on this busy street.
Exploring Aix's Markets
Aix has markets several days a week. The daily produce market in Place Richelme sells fruits, vegetables, olives, and flowers from nearby farms. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, a larger market spreads along the Cours Mirabeau and surrounding streets. Here, you can buy antiques, textiles, lavender, olive oil, and calissons d'Aix - a local candy made with ground almonds and candied melon. The covered food market at Les Halles sells cheeses, charcuterie, and other local products.
Following in Cézanne's Footsteps
Paul Cézanne lived and worked in Aix-en-Provence. You can visit his final studio, the Atelier Cézanne, which still has his easel, palettes, and still life objects. The Musée Granet displays several of Cézanne's paintings along with works by other artists who painted in Provence. To see Mont Sainte-Victoire, the mountain Cézanne often painted, go to the Terrain des Peintres (Painters' Ground) on the outskirts of town. You can set up an easel here and paint the limestone ridge yourself.
Savoring Provençal Flavors
The climate around Aix produces wines, olive oils, and other regional foods. Try rosé wines from nearby vineyards at La Fromagerie du Passage, a wine bar that also serves cheeses. For a meal with seasonal Provençal ingredients, eat at La Table de Pierre Reboul. The chef creates dishes like red mullet with saffron and fennel in a small dining room. Before you leave Aix, try calissons, the local almond-shaped candies. Roy René confectionery has been making these since 1920.
Day Trips into the Provençal Countryside
From Aix, you can explore other parts of Provence. Drive 30 minutes north to the Luberon, where you'll see hilltop villages like Gordes and Roussillon. In summer, the Valensole Plateau has fields of blooming lavender. You can hike in the Sainte-Victoire mountain range or kayak in the Verdon Gorge. For a Mediterranean experience, drive south to Cassis and take a boat tour of the calanques - limestone inlets with clear water for swimming.
