A charming market town in Provence, surrounded by the clear waters of the Sorgue River. Known for its antique shops and water wheels from the 18th century.
L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue sits in southeastern France's Vaucluse department, built around branching canals from the Srouge River. More than 300 antique dealers line its streets, with weekend markets attracting collectors from across Europe. Seventeen waterwheels covered in river moss still spin where 18th-century silk mills once operated. Visit the Collegiate Church of Notre-Dame des Anges to see gold-leaf altarpieces and a 17th-century organ. Converted mansions display modern art, including Maison René Char where poet René Char worked with artists like Picasso. Every Thursday and Sunday, plane trees shade stalls along the canals selling lavender honey, olive wood utensils, and striped Provençal fabrics.
Antique Markets and Art Exhibitions
This town holds France's second-largest concentration of antique dealers after Paris. On Sundays, 300 stalls along Avenue des 4 Otages display porcelain tableware, 19th-century furniture, and vintage jewelry. During Easter and August fairs, 500 dealers fill temporary pavilions with items ranging from Art Deco lamps to Roman coins. Permanent shops cluster in converted industrial spaces - Le Quai de la Gare, a 17th-century coaching inn, contains 30 dealers specializing in silverware and clocks. Modern art thrives in historic settings: Villa Datris shows sculpture in its riverside garden from May through October, and Campredon Centre d'Art rotates exhibitions of 20th-century painters in an 18th-century mansion.
Canals and Historical Water Systems
Seven branches of the Sorgue River flow through town, connected by stone footbridges. Follow Quai Jean Jaurès eastward to see the largest surviving waterwheels, their wooden paddles green with aquatic plants. These wheels powered wool fulling mills and paper factories until the 1900s. Walk 15 minutes upstream to Partage des Eaux, where the river splits into two main channels beside a circular stone basin. The water stays at 13°C year-round, sourced from underground springs at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse 7 km away.
Architectural Landmarks
Notre-Dame des Anges church dominates the central square with its Gothic stone facade and baroque interior filled with carved angels. Restoration work in 2009 repaired its gargoyles and 1643 organ. Nearby, the 18th-century hospital pharmacy preserves 182 hand-painted ceramic jars once used to store medicinal herbs. Maison René Char displays letters between the poet and artists like Braque in a Renaissance-era mansion. Don't miss the 14th-century Tour d'Argent on Rue de la République, one of four original defensive towers.
Weekly Markets and Regional Cuisine
Sunday markets along the canals start at 7 AM, with vendors arranging olives, goat cheeses, and socca flatbreads on folding tables. Thursday mornings bring farmers selling Cavaillon melons, fresh thyme, and truffle-infused olive oils. From August 15-20, boat vendors in traditional nego-chins sell fruit directly from the water. Try grilled Sorgue river trout with rosemary at La Prévôté restaurant, housed in a 12th-century chapel. Ice cream shops near Place de la Liberté serve flavors like fig-and-walnut or lavender-honey. Arrive before 9 AM on Sundays to find parking near Portalis lot.
Kayaking, Cycling, and Hiking Trails
Rent kayaks at Partage des Eaux to paddle downstream past willow trees and private gardens with water lilies. Cyclists follow route D24a through cherry orchards to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, where the Sorgue emerges from a 230-meter limestone cliff. Hikers take the GRP Tour du Luberon path past dry-stone shepherd huts and abandoned ochre mines. Every July, teams in wooden boats compete in water jousting tournaments near Pont Gambetta. Get maps at the tourist office for a self-guided walk linking all 17 waterwheels.
Transportation and Visiting Tips
The town lies 27 km east of Avignon, reachable by TER train in 35 minutes from Avignon Centre station. Marseille Provence Airport connects to major European cities, with rental cars available for the 75 km drive. Free parking lots like Portalis and Jean Jaurès fill quickly on market days - arrive by 8:30 AM for spaces. Most antique shops open Friday-Monday, though some close during January and February. Check local listings for summer organ concerts at Notre-Dame des Anges, often followed by open-air dinners in Place de la Liberté.
