This calm French town on the Isle River has a 12th-century cathedral, Roman amphitheater ruins, and local delicacies like wine and truffles in its historic center.
Périgueux, the capital of France's Dordogne department, invites you to wander through medieval streets where twice-weekly markets sell black truffles and foie gras. The Byzantine-style Cathedral Saint-Front rises above the town with five distinctive domes, while the glass-walled Vesunna Museum displays Roman villa remains beneath your feet. You can cycle along the Isle River or climb the Mataguerre Tower for views across terracotta rooftops.
Cathedral Saint-Front
The 12th-century Cathedral Saint-Front rises above the city with five Byzantine domes and multiple turrets. Its Greek cross layout and domed architecture make it unique in France, reflecting Eastern influences. When you step inside, look up at the central dome soaring 60 meters high, supported by massive stone pillars. Walk through the adjoining cloister, which evolved between the 12th and 16th centuries.
Medieval Center
Walk the narrow streets of Périgueux's old town to discover Renaissance mansions and medieval buildings. Start at the Mataguerre Tower, the last remaining of 28 defensive towers, where you can climb to the rooftop terrace for city views. Around Place du Coderc, you'll find 15th and 16th-century houses with ornate stone medallions and exposed timber frames. On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, the squares fill with market vendors selling local produce and regional specialties.
Roman Quarter and Vesunna Museum
At the Vesunna Museum, architect Jean Nouvel's glass structure protects a Roman villa's original floors and foundations. Walk above the archaeological remains on elevated pathways while natural light illuminates the site below. Next door, stroll through the Jardin des Arènes, an 11,000-square-meter park built on a former Roman amphitheater site. Look for the Tour de Vésone, a 25-meter cylindrical tower that once belonged to a temple dedicated to the goddess Vesunna.
Markets and Local Food
Visit the covered market halls on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. In winter, local farmers sell black truffles, while spring brings fresh strawberries. Year-round, you'll find regional specialties like foie gras and pâté de Périgueux. The market spreads through Place du Coderc, Place de la Clautre, and the town hall square. Walk down Rue Limogeanne to find specialty food shops selling regional products and Bergerac wines.
Along the Isle River
Cycle or walk the 86-kilometer paved path along the Isle River, which connects Périgueux to Bordeaux. Cross any of the bridges linking the medieval center to newer neighborhoods. Stop at the riverside gardens with benches for a break, or continue cycling along the calm waterway.
Getting There and Around
Take a train from Paris Austerlitz station via Limoges (3.5-4.5 hours). From Bergerac Airport, one hour away by car, you can connect to Paris, Nice, and several UK cities. Walk between most sights within 15 minutes in the city center. In summer, a tourist train circles the main attractions.
