The fortified citadel, built in the 13th century, sits on a limestone cliff above the Durance River in Provence. The narrow streets of this French town lead to medieval stone houses.
Sisteron sits where the Durance and Buëch rivers converge, with the Rocher de la Baume cliff rising sharply behind it and a 13th-century citadel perched above the town. Romans built their first outpost here to guard the mountain pass between the Alps and Provence. You can walk along stone walls from the Middle Ages, step inside the Notre-Dame-des-Pommiers cathedral with its rounded arches and thick columns, or hike sections of the GR 6 trail that winds through nearby hills. From mid-July to August, the citadel hosts nightly concerts and plays beneath the stars. Weekly markets fill the streets every Wednesday and Saturday with stalls selling olives, herbs, and pottery.
Visiting the Citadel
Climb 150 stone steps to reach the Citadelle de Sisteron, a fortress expanded over six centuries on a rocky outcrop first fortified by Celtic tribes. The oldest surviving section is a square tower built in the 1100s, later reinforced with angled bastions in the 1600s to resist cannon fire. Inside the chapel, sunlight filters through 15th-century stained glass depicting saints and local nobles. A small exhibit in the former barracks explains how the citadel served as a prison during the French Revolution and suffered bombing damage in 1944. Time your visit for sunset when the view from the highest terrace takes in the town’s red roofs, the Durance River’s curve, and jagged limestone peaks stretching toward the Alps.
Walking Through the Old Town
Start at the Notre-Dame-des-Pommiers cathedral, recognizable by its octagonal bell tower and stone carvings of grapevines around the entrance. Follow Rue Saunerie past 14th-century houses with wooden shutters and iron lanterns, turning onto narrow alleys where staircases connect different levels of the town. Look for the 16th-century clock tower near Place de la République—its mechanical bell still rings every hour. If you prefer not to walk, hop on the Petit Train tourist shuttle departing near the town hall. The route circles past the Porte de Provence gate, the riverside washhouse where women once laundered clothes, and the former tanneries district with its wide overhanging eaves.
Museums to Explore
In a converted chapel on Rue de la République, the Musée Terre et Temps displays a 400-year-old water clock and a modern seismograph tracking earthquakes in the region. Five minutes away, the Baden-Powell Museum houses scout memorabilia like 1920s tents, hand-stitched merit badges, and letters from French troops who used scouting skills during wartime. At the citadel, archaeological finds from the town’s Roman era include oil lamps and coins minted in Arles. For a deeper dive into ancient history, visit the Musée Gallo-Romain near the river to see milestones from the Via Domitia road and reconstructed Roman roof tiles.
Climbing, Hiking, and Flying
The Rocher de la Baume cliff has 35 marked climbing routes ranging from beginner-friendly slabs to vertical cracks requiring advanced techniques. Hikers follow the GR 6 trail west through oak forests to reach the Luberon’s dry slopes in three hours, or head east toward alpine meadows dotted with wild thyme. Three small airfields within a 15-kilometer radius provide glider rides from April to October—expect 30-minute flights circling above the citadel and Durance’s oxbow bends. During July and August, families swim at the supervised pebble beach along the Buëch River, where water stays shallow near the banks. For a historical detour, drive to Château de Malijai to see the room where Napoleon slept in 1815, now preserved with original furniture.
Planning Your Visit
Shop for local products like raw-milk Banon cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves or jars of candied melon at the Wednesday and Saturday markets along Boulevard de la République. Sisteron connects to Marseille by train (2 hours) and to Gap by bus (1 hour), with most services stopping at the station across the Durance bridge. Stay overnight to dine at Le Cèdre Bleu, where chef Sylvie Bernard slow-cooks lamb from nearby farms in clay pots with rosemary and olives. Day trips could include Authon village, where a stone fountain from 1563 still provides drinking water, or Saint-Geniez with its 12th-century chapel frescoes showing saints and mythical beasts.
