This laid-back coastal town on Crete's southwest coast has two beaches, a 13th-century Venetian fort, and local tavernas serving fresh seafood along its waterfront promenade.
Paleochora sits on a narrow peninsula along Crete’s southwest coast, with the Libyan Sea on both sides and the White Mountains rising behind it. Once a hippie destination, the town still moves at a slow pace. You’ll find two main beaches: a long sandy one facing west for sunset views and a smaller pebbled area to the east. Explore the remains of a Venetian fortress on the hilltop, visit Byzantine-era churches in nearby villages, or take a ferry to quieter coastal spots. Spend your days swimming in clear water, hiking through gorges filled with wild herbs, and eating grilled octopus at seaside restaurants. The town’s walkable center stays lively but never feels crowded, even during summer.
Beaches and Coastal Exploration
Pachia Ammos, the sandy beach west of town, stretches 1.5 kilometers and has shallow water safe for children. Rent a sunbed under tamarisk trees or try windsurfing when winds pick up in the afternoon. On the peninsula’s eastern side, Chalikia Beach has rocky areas where you can snorkel around damselfish and sea urchins. Walk 20 minutes west to reach Krios Beach, a pebbled spot with clear waves, or book a boat trip to Elafonisi’s pink sand lagoon. Ferries also run regularly to Gavdos, Europe’s southernmost island, where empty coves and clear night skies draw visitors.
History and Landmarks
The Venetian Fortress of Selino, built in 1279 on the peninsula’s highest point, gives you panoramic views of Paleochora and the sea. Though mostly in ruins, its remaining walls and old cistern reflect its role in Venetian and Ottoman conflicts. In Anidri village, the 14th-century Church of Agios Georgios displays well-preserved Byzantine frescoes of saints and religious stories. Paleochora itself lies over the ancient settlement of Kalamydi—after heavy rains, Roman pottery fragments sometimes wash up in the soil. The town’s Acretan Museum keeps traditional farming tools, woven textiles, and photos documenting daily life over the past century.
Trails and Nature
Hike the Anidri Gorge trail, a 2.5-hour path starting near Anidri village that winds through ravines filled with oleander bushes before reaching Gialiskari Beach. Follow the E4 European trail east toward Sougia or north into the White Mountains’ rocky slopes. In spring, hillsides bloom with orchids, poppies, and yellow Cretan ebony flowers. For a shorter walk, take the marked path to Azogires village, where a 1,000-year-old plane tree shades a café serving homemade raki. Join a boat tour from the harbor to spot dolphins and sea turtles near Grammeno Bay.
Food and Restaurants
Seafood is the star here—try grilled sardines, herb-stuffed calamari, or kakavia fish stew at waterfront spots like To Kyma. Inland family restaurants serve dishes like lamb cooked with wild greens and dakos salad topped with barley rusks and tomatoes. Visit Grameno Taverna, 5 kilometers west, for goat slow-cooked in clay pots or snails prepared using old family recipes. Start your day with thick Greek yogurt and thyme honey at Votsalis Café, and end evenings with citrus-flavored raki at small bars tucked into side streets.
Transportation Options
Most people drive from Chania along the 77-kilometer route through Koutsamatado Gorge, passing olive groves and villages perched on hills. Six buses daily connect Chania’s main station to Paleochora in under two hours. From May to September, ferries run to Sougia, Agia Roumeli, and Loutro, serving as a base for exploring Crete’s southern coast. Rent a scooter to visit beaches like Elafonisi or Kedrodasos on day trips.
Weather and When to Visit
Summer brings hot, dry days with temperatures sometimes staying above 35°C at night—plan indoor activities or beach visits for early mornings. April to June offers cooler weather and wildflowers perfect for hiking. September and October have warm water and fewer visitors. Most businesses close from November to March, but winter stays mild enough for exploring ruins without crowds.
Festivals and Daily Life
February’s Carnival includes parades with satirical floats and live lyra music performances. During Orthodox Easter, locals roast whole lambs in public squares and share red-dyed eggs. The open-air cinema near the port shows films like Zorba the Greek weekly in summer. Visit the weekly farmers’ market to buy local thyme honey, graviera cheese, and olives from nearby farms.
