This medieval Tuscan city, 30km from Florence, has a well-preserved 12th-century cathedral and Europe's largest collection of ornamental plants in its nursery district.
Just 30 kilometers west of Florence, Pistoia welcomes visitors with its medieval streets and striking Piazza del Duomo, where black and white marble stripes adorn the cathedral's facade. Walk through the city's underground tunnels beneath a 13th-century hospital, watch international musicians perform at the Pistoia Blues festival, or wander through vast plant nurseries that supply trees and flowers to gardens across Europe.
Exploring Piazza del Duomo
The 12th-century Cathedral of San Zeno dominates Pistoia's main square with its green and white marble facade. Step inside to see the silver Altar of St James, a one-ton masterpiece containing 628 figures. Look up at the 67-meter bell tower, then walk to the Gothic baptistry across the square. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, local vendors set up market stalls throughout the piazza.
Religious Architecture Beyond the Square
Black and white marble stripes run across the exterior of San Giovanni Fuorcivitas church, where you'll find a 14th-century Visitation in glazed terracotta by Andrea della Robbia. At the 13th-century Ospedale del Ceppo, look up at the Robbiano frieze showing detailed medical scenes from medieval times. Walk to the Church of Sant'Andrea to see Giovanni Pisano's intricate marble pulpit.
Underground Pistoia Experience
Walk through the medieval water system under the Ospedale del Ceppo on the "Pistoia Sotterranea" tour. These 13th-century tunnels expanded during the Black Death epidemic when the hospital needed more space. You'll learn how medieval citizens managed water distribution and handled medical care during epidemics.
July Festivals
Musicians take over Piazza del Duomo each July for the Pistoia Blues festival, which now includes rock and alternative music alongside traditional blues. On July 25th, watch the Giostra dell'Orso (Bear Joust) medieval tournament, where riders from different neighborhoods aim their lances at a bear-shaped target.
Plant Nurseries and Gardens
The largest plant nurseries in Europe spread across the countryside around Pistoia, exporting trees and plants worldwide. Visit the Fattoria di Celle to walk among contemporary art installations while seeing how local growers maintain their centuries-old plant cultivation techniques.
Local Food Traditions
Try zuppa del carcerato (prisoner's soup), a hearty dish of stale bread and meat broth that originated in the city's prison kitchens. Local confectioners make sugared almonds using recipes passed down through generations. In autumn and spring, restaurants serve dishes with wild mushrooms, blueberries, and raspberries gathered from the nearby mountains.
Getting Around
Trains run from Florence to Pistoia every 30-40 minutes. Park your car in one of the lots outside the center and take a shuttle bus into town. You can walk between most sites in the historic center within 15 minutes from Piazza del Duomo.
