Perched on a hilltop above the Tiber River, this medieval Umbrian town has preserved its 13th-century Romanesque cathedral and Gothic palace amid winding stone streets.
Todi rises 400 meters above the Tiber valley in central Umbria. As you walk through its medieval stone buildings and winding streets, you'll pass ancient Roman cisterns, 13th-century palaces, and quiet squares with stone fountains. In the main square, three grand palaces stand next to a Romanesque cathedral, while the Renaissance church of Santa Maria della Consolazione sits outside the walls, its four-sided dome visible from miles around.
Discovering Piazza del Popolo
The Palazzo del Popolo, built in 1213, anchors one side of Todi's main square - it's one of Italy's oldest public buildings. Next to it, the Palazzo del Capitano welcomes you with an open ground-floor arcade. The cathedral completes the square's ensemble with its Romanesque façade and detailed rose window. You can explore the Roman cisterns beneath the square, where a network of pillars and channels from the 1st century BC stored the town's water supply.
Walking Through Medieval Streets
Three rings of ancient walls - Etruscan, Roman, and medieval - encircle Todi. Take the modern elevator at Porta Orvietana up to Giardini Oberdan, where you can look out over Monte Castello di Vibio and rows of olive groves. Follow the narrow lanes through the medieval quarter, where stone archways frame your path and small squares appear around corners, many with centuries-old fountains still flowing.
Local Food and Markets
The Saturday market runs from 8am to 1pm, with local vendors selling wild boar, truffles, and wines from nearby vineyards. Look for Grechetto di Todi wine, made from grapes grown on the slopes visible from the town walls. Many cafes serve pan caciato, a local bread filled with cheese, nuts, and raisins. In winter, some restaurants prepare palomba alla ghiotta (roasted pigeon), a dish that dates back to Roman times.
Churches Beyond the Walls
Walk down to Santa Maria della Consolazione to see its geometric Greek cross design up close. The clear lines of its dome and apses make it a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. Inside San Fortunato church, climb 150 steps to the bell tower for views across the Tiber Valley and surrounding medieval villages. The church houses the tomb of Jacopone da Todi, who wrote poetry in the local dialect during the 1200s and challenged Pope Boniface VIII.
Getting to Todi
Drive 90 minutes from Rome on the E45 highway to reach Todi's western gate. If you're using public transport, take a train from Rome's Termini station to either Orte or Perugia, then connect to a bus for the 40-minute ride to Todi's center at Piazza Jacopone. Buses run several times daily, with more frequent service during summer months.
