Fez

Fez, once the capital of Morocco, is home to Fes el Bali, one of the world's largest car-free urban areas. The city's ancient medina contains narrow alleyways leading to ornate madrasas, busy souks, and the city's famous leather tanneries. Fez also houses Al-Qarawiyyin, widely regarded as the oldest continually operating university globally. With its rich history and traditional atmosphere, Fez presents an immersive look into Moroccan daily life and customs.

Exploring the Medina of Fez

The medina of Fez, known as Fes el Bali, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world. As you enter through the blue-tiled Bab Bou Jeloud gate, you'll find yourself in a maze of over 9,000 narrow alleys. The medina is divided into different quarters, each specializing in particular crafts or trades. You can spend hours walking through the winding streets, discovering hidden courtyards, ornate mosques, and lively marketplaces. Donkeys and handcarts are the primary means of transporting goods through the narrow lanes, so you'll often see them as you explore.

Key Landmarks in Fez

The Bou Inania Madrasa, a 14th-century religious school, is known for its intricate zellige tilework and carved cedar. The madrasa is unique as it's one of the few religious buildings in Morocco that non-Muslims can enter. Another important landmark is the Al-Qarawiyyin University and Mosque, founded in 859 CE and considered by many to be the oldest continually operating university in the world. While non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque itself, you can admire its grand entrance and peek into the courtyard.

Traditional Crafts and Souks

Fez is known for its traditional crafts, and the medina is filled with workshops where artisans practice centuries-old techniques. In the Seffarine Square, you can watch coppersmiths hammering out intricate designs on pots and pans. The nearby Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts, housed in a restored caravanserai, displays fine examples of Moroccan woodwork. As you explore the souks, you'll find everything from handwoven textiles and ceramics to spices and traditional Moroccan slippers called babouches.

The Leather Tanneries

The leather tanneries are one of Fez's most recognizable sights. The largest and oldest is the Chouara Tannery, which has been in operation since the 11th century. From the terraces of surrounding leather shops, you can look down on the large stone vats filled with dyes of various colors. Workers stand waist-deep in the vats, processing the animal hides using methods that have changed little over the centuries. The smell can be quite strong, so most shops offer sprigs of mint to hold under your nose as you observe the tannery.

Moroccan Cuisine in Fez

Fez has many places to sample traditional Moroccan cuisine. Start your day with a breakfast of khobz (Moroccan bread) with olive oil and jam, accompanied by mint tea. For lunch, try a steaming bowl of harira soup or a tasty tagine. In the evening, sample pastilla, a savory-sweet pie traditionally made with pigeon but often prepared with chicken today. For a unique dining experience, book a table at Nur, where chef Najat Kaanache creates innovative dishes using local ingredients and traditional Moroccan flavors.

Staying in a Riad

For a traditional Moroccan stay, choose a riad - a house built around a central courtyard. Many riads in Fez have been converted into boutique hotels, providing a calm retreat from the busy medina. Riad Laaroussa and Dar Roumana are two well-regarded options, both offering beautifully decorated rooms and views over the medina from their rooftop terraces.

Getting Around Fez

The medina of Fez is entirely pedestrian, and the narrow, winding streets can be challenging to navigate for first-time visitors. While getting lost is part of the experience, you might want to hire a guide for your first day to help you get your bearings. Official guides can be arranged through your hotel or at the tourist office. When you're ready to explore on your own, remember that streets going downhill generally lead to the center of the medina, while those going uphill lead to the edges.

Day Trips from Fez

While Fez itself has enough to keep you occupied for several days, there are also interesting day trip options. The ruins of Volubilis, an ancient Roman city, are about an hour and a half drive from Fez. The well-preserved mosaics and columns show Morocco's Roman past. Another option is the town of Sefrou, known for its annual Cherry Festival in June. The town's mellah (Jewish quarter) and cave-riddled hills make for an interesting excursion.