Once a thriving port on the Aral Sea, this remote town now sits 150km from the water's edge, with rusting ships in the sand marking its past as a fishing center.
Muynak, a former fishing port in Uzbekistan's Karakalpakstan region, now lies 150 kilometers from what remains of the Aral Sea, surrounded by the dry expanse of the Aralkum Desert. This town once thrived on Soviet-era fishing but now invites you to walk among rusted ships half-buried in sand, attend the Stihia Festival’s electronic music events near these decaying hulls, and see faded photos of fish markets at the Muynak Museum. You can step onto the cracked ground where the sea once stood and sleep in yurts under clear desert skies. Muynak tells a direct story of environmental change, showing how human actions reshape landscapes.
The Ship Graveyard and Aral Sea Memorial
Rusted Soviet fishing boats dominate Muynak’s landscape, left behind as the Aral Sea vanished. These ships now sit in sand, some propped upright, others collapsed into twisted metal. A raised platform near the sail-shaped Aral Sea Memorial lets you see rows of hulls stretching toward the horizon. Walk closer to touch the peeling paint and see where seabirds nest in the shadows of propellers. The memorial marks the original shoreline, now a dry bluff overlooking the desert that replaced the water.
Muynak Regional Studies Museum
This small museum occupies a building once used for canning fish. Black-and-white images line the walls, showing workers loading crates of sturgeon onto trains and families mending nets. You’ll find rusted machinery from the cannery era and a wooden fishing boat displayed near Soviet posters praising industrial progress. Maps chart the Aral Sea’s retreat from Muynak over decades, and drawings by local children imagine the water’s return. Exhibits also explain how Karakalpak communities once relied on fur trade and woven textiles before the fishing industry collapsed.
Stihia Festival: Music in the Desert
Each autumn since 2018, electronic music echoes through Muynak’s ship graveyard during the Stihia Festival. DJs from Tashkent, Berlin, and other cities perform on stages built near the wrecks, with lights reflecting off the metal. The event highlights the Aral Sea’s ecological story while bringing temporary energy to the town. Visitors sleep in tents or yurts near the festival grounds, waking to see the sun rise over the desert. Over 10,000 people attended in recent years, creating a brief surge of activity in Muynak’s quiet streets.
How to Reach Muynak
Most trips to Muynak start in Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan. Shared taxis and minibuses make the three-hour drive across the desert road, leaving Nukus around 9 AM and returning by mid-afternoon. For more time at the ship graveyard, hire a private driver or join a tour from Khiva that includes stops at crumbling Khorezm fortresses. Flights to Muynak’s airfield are rare and unpredictable. Overnight options include yurt camps near the ships or basic guesthouses like Hotel Ratmina, which has rooms with shared bathrooms.
Understanding the Aral Sea’s Decline
Soviet irrigation projects in the 1960s diverted rivers feeding the Aral Sea, causing 90% of its water to vanish by 2000. Muynak’s fish-processing plants closed, jobs disappeared, and dust from the dry seabed led to health problems. Many younger residents left for work abroad, but some elders still recall swimming in the sea as children. A small freshwater lake now supplies drinking water, and recent gas exploration nearby has sparked cautious hope for new jobs. Guides often share stories of the sea’s rapid disappearance during walks across the former shoreline.
Food and Handmade Goods in Muynak
Meals here focus on hearty dishes suited to the desert climate. Try mayok-boryok—dumplings stuffed with pumpkin or lamb, served with yogurt. Fish from distant reservoirs appears grilled or baked in clay ovens, though it’s less common than in the past. Breakfast might include kurt, salty dried cheese eaten with bread. Look for embroidered cotton skullcaps at the market, decorated with geometric patterns. Some locals discuss creating jewelry from ship debris, but these crafts remain rare.
Planning Your Visit
Aim to visit in spring or autumn to avoid summer temperatures above 45°C and winter cold snaps. Carry sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and enough water for desert walks. Closed-toe shoes protect your feet when climbing shipwrecks with sharp edges. While Muynak has little crime, stick to well-lit areas after dark. Staff at hotels and the museum speak some English, but knowing phrases like “skolko stoit?” (how much?) helps when arranging rides. Camping at the ship graveyard costs nothing, but yurts provide beds and blankets for about $10 nightly.
Exploring the Area Around Muynak
Guided tours from Muynak often visit the Ustyurt Plateau, where limestone cliffs reveal ancient seashell fossils, and Sudochye Lakes, a stopover for flamingos and pelicans. The Savitsky Art Museum in Nukus, a two-hour drive south, displays Soviet-era paintings hidden during censorship periods. For a full-day trip, drive 150 kilometers northwest to the current Aral Sea shoreline, passing salt flats and abandoned fishing villages where camels roam near skeletal lighthouses.
