A medieval castle from the 14th century rises above dense pine forests in central Bohemia. Its Gothic architecture and stone walls tell stories of Czech nobility.
Kokořín, a village in Central Bohemia, attracts visitors with its medieval castle and striking sandstone terrain. The 14th-century Kokořín Castle, rebuilt in neo-Gothic style, rises above the Pšovka River valley within the Kokořínsko Protected Landscape Area. Walk through narrow gorges, hike to rock formations such as Mšenské pokličky, or swim in Harasov pond. Nearby, villages with timber-framed houses and quiet paths make it a good day trip from Prague, located 35 km south. Centuries of farming and weather patterns have shaped this area’s history and land.
Kokořín Castle: History and Access
Kokořín Castle rises from a sandstone hill above the village, reachable by a forest trail. Hynek Berka of Dubá constructed it in the 14th century, but it crumbled after the Hussite Wars until reconstruction in 1911–1918. Climb the 38-meter tower to see the Pšovka valley, and explore palace rooms with original furniture and painted walls. Guides share stories about the castle’s military past and modern repairs. The Špaček family, who financed the restoration, took back ownership in 2006 after the government managed it for years.
Kokořínsko Protected Landscape Area: Geology and Trails
The Kokořínsko Protected Landscape Area covers 410 km² of forests, sandstone cliffs, and ravines. Walk marked paths past rock shapes like Močidla gorge or find old mill ruins along the Pšovka River. Small caves and overhangs in the sandstone served as hideouts during wars. Unique plants grow in damp valleys, and birds stop at ponds during migrations. The region’s history includes German communities living here until the mid-20th century.
Mšenské pokličky: Hiking to Sandstone Columns
Mšenské pokličky, 12-meter sandstone formations shaped like lids, took thousands of years to form through erosion. Start at Kokořín Castle and hike 5 km on the red trail through the Pšovka valley to reach them. The widest capstone balances on a thin column, stretching six meters across. Nearby Jestřebické pokličky, harder to reach, let you see Močidla gorge from above. Arrive before noon in summer to avoid busy trails filled with groups from Prague.
Harasov Pond: Swimming and Recreation
Harasov Pond, filled by the Pšovka River, has a swimming area bordered by sandstone walls. Parts of the shore have sandy spots for picnics or resting in the sun. Clear water and gradual slopes make it safe for children, though there are no changing rooms or food stands. People fish here for carp and pike, and hikers often pass by on routes to the castle. When temperatures drop, the ice-covered pond becomes a spot for skating and winter photography.
Villages and Nearby Towns: Local Life and Services
Kokořín’s six small settlements, like Truskavna and Janova Ves, keep their 18th–19th century wooden houses and barns. Mšeno, 12 km south, includes a 1930s spa with art deco design and connects to hiking paths. Mělník, 20 minutes west by car, has a chateau on a hill with views of where the Vltava and Elbe rivers meet. These towns have grocery stores and cafes, unlike remote Kokořínsko villages where you’ll need to bring supplies for extended stays.
Practical Tips: Getting Around and Staying Overnight
Kokořín has no train station, but buses from Mělník operate multiple times a day. Drive from Prague in an hour using Highway 16, and park near the castle or trail starts. Hiking and informal camping are allowed without permits, but set up tents away from official areas. Penzion Malba, located below the castle, rents bikes and has simple rooms. Bring snacks and drinks—shops are scarce outside Mšeno and Dubá. Trail markers are clear, but carry a paper map since phone service fades in deep valleys.
