Antipaxos

Antipaxos is a small island south of Paxos in the Ionian Sea, where you'll find white sand beaches like Voutoumi and Vrika, clear turquoise waters, and vineyards. The island covers just 4 square kilometers, with trails winding through olive groves and past grapevines. Take a 15-minute sea taxi from Paxos to reach its shores, where shallow bays let you wade into the sea without strong currents. Fewer than 50 people live here year-round, so even in summer you’ll share the beaches with only a handful of visitors. Beachside tavernas serve dishes like grilled octopus and local wine, but you won’t find hotels or shops – the island’s simplicity keeps attention on its clear waters and quiet coves.

Beaches and Swimming Areas

Antipaxos has three main beaches, each with a different atmosphere. Voutoumi stretches along a curved bay with pale pebbles underfoot and water that turns from light blue near the shore to deeper shades further out. North of Voutoumi, Vrika has softer sand and the same clear water, with one taverna right on the beach serving lunch. Between them, Mesovikra stays quieter, mixing small pebbles with coarse sand. None of these beaches have permanent buildings beyond temporary sunbeds and seasonal snack bars, keeping them untouched. For deeper water, head to Kaloiri Cove on the west coast – a rocky path leads to a spot popular with snorkelers and divers.

Getting to the Island

You can reach the island only by boat. Regular sea taxis leave from Gaios harbor on Paxos throughout the day in summer, taking 15 minutes each way. No need to book ahead – just show up and pay on board. If you rent a small private boat from Paxos, you can explore hidden inlets along Antipaxos’ coast without needing a special license. The island’s single harbor, Agrapidia, gets crowded with tour boats by noon, so arrive early to find space. Most visitors return to Paxos by sunset since Antipaxos has no streetlights or evening services.

Snorkeling and Water Clarity

The shallow waters at Vrika and Voutoumi stay calm, making them safe for children or anyone uncomfortable with waves. Rocky areas near Kaloiri Cove and the east coast attract schools of fish and sea urchins, visible in water clear enough to see the seabed 10 meters down. Morning light improves visibility before boats arrive. Bring your own mask and fins – there’s nowhere to rent equipment on the island. To avoid crowds, come before 10 AM or visit in June or September when fewer boats anchor offshore.

Local Wine and Vineyards

Vineyards cover much of Antipaxos’ interior, growing organic red grapes like mavrodaphni. Volcanic soil and mild winters give the wine a sweet, intense flavor. Most bottles stay on the island or go to Paxos, sold unlabeled at tavernas. Try a glass at Spiros Taverna on Vrika Beach, where they pair it with fried squid or tomato keftedes. The limited production means you won’t find this wine elsewhere – take a bottle back to your villa if you can.

Where to Eat

Five seasonal tavernas operate on Antipaxos, all closing by early evening. At Voutoumi Beach Bar and Restaurant, eat grilled squid at tables set on the pebbles just steps from the water. Spiros Taverna at Vrika has shaded seating and views of boats arriving at the harbor. For a quick snack, Bpyka Taverna-Bar serves coffee and sandwiches. Menus focus on fish caught that morning, olives from Paxos, and herbs picked from nearby hills. Meat options are rare, reflecting the island’s seafood-centered traditions.

Staying Overnight

No hotels exist here, but a few private villas like Bella Vista rent weekly. These homes have basic kitchens and terraces overlooking Voutoumi Beach. Bring groceries from Paxos – the island has no stores, and tavernas close by 7:30 PM. Electricity comes from generators, and Wi-Fi works inconsistently, so plan to disconnect. Most villas book up weeks in advance during July and August, but availability opens in May or October.

Walking Paths and Inland Sights

Dirt trails link Agrapidia harbor to the island’s center, passing stone walls and wild fig trees. From Voutoumi, a 40-minute hike leads to cliffs on the southern coast where thyme grows between rocks. Climb to Profitis Ilias, the highest point, for views stretching to Corfu on clear days. Wear shoes with good grip – paths are rocky and uneven, with no markers. Hike early or late in the day to avoid heat, as shade is scarce.

Best Times to Visit

July and August bring warm water and busy beaches, with temperatures around 28°C during the day. Crowds thin in September, though some tavernas start closing by mid-month. May and June offer cooler weather for hiking, with wildflowers covering the hills. From November to April, sea taxis stop running and storms can make the island inaccessible. Almost all residents move to Paxos during winter, leaving Antipaxos empty.