Eretria

In Eretria, a coastal town on Evia island, you can walk past 5th-century BC theater ruins near a modern promenade lined with seafood tavernas. Discover floor mosaics from 370 BC under protective canopies, or visit the Archaeological Museum housing artifacts from Persian wars and Roman settlements. Cross a short bridge to Pezonisi, a pine-covered islet with sheltered coves, and watch ferries arrive from Attica against a backdrop of ancient city walls.

Archaeological Site of Ancient Eretria

Begin at the northern edge of modern Eretria, where excavations expose a city that dominated Aegean trade routes centuries ago. The 4th-century BC House of Mosaics reveals pebble floors arranged in geometric designs beneath a protective pavilion. Foundations of the Temple of Apollo Daphnephoros indicate the city’s religious center, and the Hellenistic theater preserves 18 original marble seating rows. Sections of 4 km-long defensive walls, including the West Gate used for chariot processions, demonstrate how Eretria resisted invasions before its destruction by Persians in 490 BC. Nearby, Roman-era workshops highlight the town’s later role in producing purple dye.

Eretria Archaeological Museum

This museum, managed by the Swiss School of Archaeology, arranges discoveries from Mycenaean to Roman periods in chronological order. Bronze helmets and spearheads from the 490 BC Persian invasion sit alongside terracotta Artemis statues excavated from the Temple of Isis. Models illustrate the city’s 4th-century BC layout, when palaces and gymnasiums surrounded the harbor. A 7th-century BC ceramic vase from Lefkandi shows a ship procession, emphasizing Eretria’s seafaring traditions. Greek and English descriptions explain how digs since 1885 have reconstructed the town’s past.

Acropolis Hill and Theater

Walk up the acropolis hill north of the archaeological zone for views over the Lelantine Plain, historically disputed between Eretria and Chalcis. Remnants of 4th-century BC Cyclopean walls trace the fortress that shielded residents during conflicts. Below the hill, the theater once held political gatherings and plays—look for stone seats engraved with names of prominent citizens. Summer festivals sometimes revive performances here, using the original stage configuration that accommodated 6,300 viewers. From the hilltop, you can see villages dotting the landscape and the Aegean stretching toward the horizon.

Beaches and Pezonisi Island

Eretria’s primary beach runs 1.5 km along the town, with golden sand and tamarisk trees offering shade behind the shoreline. Rent paddleboards or kayaks near the ferry dock to explore eastern coves toward Magoula. A 50-meter bridge connects to Pezonisi, where pine trails lead to small bays ideal for swimming with views of Attica. For less crowded spots, drive 10 minutes west to Malakonta’s pebble beaches or southeast to Amarinthos’ resorts with sunbed rentals.

Local Food and Seasonal Events

Eat at waterfront spots like La Cubana, serving grilled octopus and sardines as fishing boats unload nearby. Family-owned Diporto, close to the archaeological site, prepares revithada (chickpea stew) favored by residents. During late February’s Carnival, join parades with elaborate floats and masked dancers, then fly kites on Clean Monday. In July, attend the Aghia Anna festival in Gerontas for live music and free bean soup after evening church services. Reserve tables in August when Athenians crowd seaside restaurants to avoid summer heat.

Day Trips to Chalkida and Amarinthos

Drive 25 km north to Chalkida, where the Archaeological Museum displays Euboean artifacts in a renovated 1900s tobacco warehouse. Stroll the rotating bridge over the Euripus Strait, famous for shifting tidal currents. Southeast of Eretria, Amarinthos’ 13th-century BC tholos tomb and medieval watchtower stand above beaches with bars serving iced coffee. Hike the 6 km trail from Amarinthos to Mount Olympus’ summit for sweeping views of Evia’s eastern coast.

Getting to Eretria

Ferries depart hourly from Skala Oropou in Attica during summer, reaching Eretria’s port in 45 minutes. By car, take the E75 highway to Chalkida, then follow the coastal road south for 18 km. Buses from Athens’ Liossion station stop in Chalkida; switch to local routes to Eretria’s central square. Athens International Airport, 96 km away, offers rental cars for the 90-minute drive via the Chalcis bridge.