This calm lakeside town in northern Greece has 72 Byzantine churches dating from the 9th century, and traditional mansions where fur traders lived in the 18th century.
On a peninsula in Lake Orestiada, northern Greece, Kastoria's narrow streets wind past stone mansions and Byzantine churches. You'll find the 11th-century Mavriotissa Monastery with its emperor portraits, the underground lakes of Dragon's Cave, and the wooden-balconied Tsiatsiapas Mansion. Walk along the lake watching pelicans and herons while stopping at tavernas for makálo meatballs and fresh lake fish. The city remains Greece's main fur trading center, with workshops and showrooms scattered throughout its old neighborhoods.
Walking Around Lake Orestiada
A 9-kilometer lakeside path takes you through groves of beech and plane trees. Start at the old town and walk clockwise to reach the best morning photography spots. You'll spot cormorants, pelicans, and several of the lake's 200 bird species. The full circuit takes 2-3 hours at a relaxed pace. Stop at the 11th-century Mavriotissa Monastery at the 3-kilometer mark, or rest at one of the cafes near the 5-kilometer point.
Byzantine Churches of Kastoria
Walk through Kastoria's streets to discover 54 churches built between the 9th and 19th centuries. Visit the Panagia Koumpelidiki to see its unique dome structure, unlike the typical basilica design of other local churches. Inside Panagia Mavriotissa, look for the detailed murals of Byzantine emperors. The churches of Taxiarchon and Agion Anargyron show how building styles changed across centuries. Most churches open to visitors from 9:00-13:00 and 17:00-19:00, except during services.
Historic Neighborhoods
In the Doltso quarter, 17th and 18th-century buildings line the streets, built during Kastoria's fur trading peak. Visit the Neratzi Aivazi mansion, now the Folk Art Museum (open Tuesday-Sunday, 9:00-17:00), to see traditional crafts and household items. Walk to the Apozari district to find Ottoman-era houses, including the Tsiatsiapas Mansion with its projecting wooden balconies and interior wall paintings.
Dragon's Cave
Walk 300 meters into this cave system on the northern shore to see seven underground lakes connected by footbridges. The 30-minute guided tours (€8 for adults, €4 for children) explain how water shaped the cave's stalactites and stalagmites over millennia. Tours run every hour from 10:00-16:00 in winter and 10:00-18:00 in summer.
Local Food Scene
Lake fish appears on most restaurant menus - try the carp, tench, or eel prepared grilled or in garoufa soup. Order sarmades (cabbage-wrapped meatballs) or local pies like kolokythopita (pumpkin) and kremmydopita (onion). The lake shore restaurants between the old town and Dragon's Cave serve these dishes, with many families running their kitchens for generations.
Getting to Kastoria
Buses leave every two hours from Thessaloniki's west terminal to Kastoria (2.5 hours). Olympic Air operates two daily flights from Athens. In town, walk between most sites within 20 minutes, or take local buses to the Dispilio archaeological site, 7 kilometers south. Buses to Dispilio run every hour from the central station (€1.60 one-way).
