This rural village in western Hungary has a 13th-century church with medieval frescoes, including Europe's oldest artist self-portrait from 1377, surrounded by oak forests and pottery workshops.
Velemér, a small village of fewer than 100 residents in western Hungary's Vas county, sits within the forested Őrség region. You can explore the 13th-century Holy Trinity Church with its medieval frescoes, including a self-portrait by artist János Aquila from 1377. At the Sindümúzeum, you'll find locally-made water jugs decorated with regional patterns and hand-woven textiles. The surrounding oak and beech forests have marked walking paths leading to active pottery workshops and yellow lily meadows.
The Medieval Holy Trinity Church
The Holy Trinity Church rises from a forest clearing at the village edge, dating back to the late 13th century. János Aquila painted the church's interior walls in 1377-78 with biblical scenes and saints' legends, including what art historians consider Europe's oldest self-portrait. A 2003 restoration preserved 60% of the original frescoes. You'll see the medieval artwork best before noon on sunny days, when natural light streams through the small windows. The church opens daily from 9 AM to 5 PM, and guides give tours in Hungarian and English.
Walking Trails and Nature
The 12-kilometer Sárgaliliom Trail winds through Velemér as part of the Őrség National Park path network. Yellow lilies bloom along the trail during spring and summer. You can connect to other routes like the 8-kilometer Wächterweg and 15-kilometer St. Martin's Way. While walking, you'll pass through oak and beech forests, wildflower meadows, and small farms with thatched roofs and wooden gates typical of the Őrség region.
Local Museums and Crafts
The Sindümúzeum at Fő utca 7 houses pottery, textiles, and wooden items from the Őrség region. You'll find water jugs with distinctive regional patterns, decorated plates, and embroidered textiles with local motifs. The area's clay-rich soil has supported pottery-making for centuries. In Magyarszombatfa, 2.3 kilometers away, you can watch artisans shape clay on wooden wheels and learn about their firing techniques.
Practical Information
Velemér lies 60 kilometers from Hévíz-Balaton Airport. Buses run twice daily from Zalaegerszeg, the nearest major town. Entry to the Holy Trinity Church costs 1000 HUF and includes a postcard. You can stay at the Velemeri Vendeghaz guesthouse or choose from several small hotels within 10 kilometers. For the best photos of the church's frescoes, visit between 9 AM and noon when sunlight enters through the eastern windows.
