Ajloun

Ajloun sits in Jordan’s northern highlands, known for its 12th-century hilltop castle, forests with hiking trails, and ancient mosaics. The town’s Ajloun Castle gives clear views of the Jordan Valley from Mount Auf. Nearby, the Ajloun Nature Reserve has marked paths through oak trees and Roman-era wine presses. At Tell Mar Elias, you can walk around Byzantine church ruins with detailed animal mosaics tied to the prophet Elijah. The area stays cooler than southern Jordan, making it a practical stop for exploring historical sites, walking in woodlands, and trying local flatbreads or olive oil products.

Ajloun Castle: Hilltop Fortress with Strategic History

Saladin’s general Izz al-Din Usama built Ajloun Castle in 1184 to block Crusader advances into Jordan. The fortress stands on Mount Auf at 1,250 meters, with thick stone walls and four watchtowers still visible. Walk through arched passageways to reach the rooftop, where you can see the Golan Heights on clear days. Inside, a museum exhibits arrowheads, swords, and pottery from the castle’s time as a military base and iron mining hub. Entry costs 3 JD (about $4.25) and is covered by the Jordan Pass. Plan two hours to explore the towers, underground rooms, and displays.

Ajloun Nature Reserve: Trails and Wildlife

This 13-square-kilometer reserve shelters oak forests, wild boar, and over 30 bird species. Choose from five trails, like the 2-kilometer Soap House Trail that ends at a workshop making olive oil soap by hand. The 8-kilometer Eagle Trail takes you past 2nd-century Roman wine presses and up to viewpoints above 1,000 meters. Sleep in basic eco-cabins or pitch a tent at the reserve’s campsite, which has bathrooms and hot showers. April and May bring red poppies and cyclamens, while October offers cooler weather for longer hikes.

Tell Mar Elias: Byzantine Ruins and Mosaics

Archaeologists link this hilltop site to the prophet Elijah’s birthplace, mentioned in biblical texts. Two 6th-century churches here have mosaic floors showing lions, gazelles, and intricate border patterns. The ruins overlook orchards and Ajloun’s forested hills, with informational signs explaining the excavation process. Arrive before 10 a.m. to avoid direct sun, as few trees shade the pathways. Entry is free, and the site stays open daily from sunrise to sunset.

Great Ajloun Mosque: Ayyubid-Era Landmark

Built in 1214, this mosque in Ajloun’s center has a stone minaret and a courtyard lined with old olive trees. Its design follows Ayyubid military architecture, with narrow windows and a fortified entrance. While non-Muslims can’t enter the prayer hall, you can study the exterior carvings and learn about its use as a gathering place during Mamluk rule. A 10-minute walk away, the Ajloun Cable Car opened in 2023, connecting the town to the castle via a 15-minute ride over olive groves.

Local Foods and Handmade Products

Bakeries in Ajloun bake large, chewy flatbreads in domed clay ovens—order one fresh with a bowl of olive oil for dipping. Summaga, a café near the castle entrance, serves freekeh salad with roasted chicken and mint lemonade made from local ingredients. Buy olive oil soap bars or za’atar spice mixes at their shop, which funds training programs for women in nearby villages. If you have time, book a cooking class to learn how to prepare dishes like maqluba (spiced rice with vegetables) using herbs from the reserve.

Transportation and Practical Tips

Ajloun lies 73 kilometers from Amman, reachable by bus from Tabarbour station for 1 JD or a 90-minute taxi ride costing around 25 JD. Shared taxis from Jerash take 40 minutes and can drop you at both the castle and reserve for 15 JD round-trip. Wear shoes with grip for the castle’s uneven stairs and the reserve’s rocky trails. Carry small bills for entry fees, as card payments aren’t accepted at most sites. The cable car runs every 30 minutes from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with tickets priced at 5 JD per person.