This northeastern Polish town sits along the Czarna Hańcza river, with active student life, 19th-century architecture, and well-maintained parks drawing visitors year-round.
Suwałki, a city of 69,000 people in northeastern Poland, records the country's coldest temperatures outside mountain regions, with winter readings dropping below -30°C. Walk down Kościuszko Street to see 19th-century classicist buildings with carved stone cornices and ionic pilasters. Visit Lake Wigry to kayak past former Camaldolese monastery, or hike through the ancient pines of Augustów Forest. Stop at local restaurants to taste kartacze - potato dumplings filled with meat, while listening to both Polish and Lithuanian conversations around you.
Getting to Suwałki
Direct trains and buses connect Warsaw to Suwałki in about 3.5 hours, and Gdańsk in 4.5 hours. Rent a car to explore the region's lakes and forests independently, as buses between smaller towns run only a few times per day. The city sits 30 kilometers from the Lithuanian border, making it a good base for exploring both countries.
Winter Climate and the Polish Cold Pole
Suwałki earned its nickname as the "Polish pole of cold" by recording the lowest average temperatures among major Polish cities outside mountainous areas. Winter temperatures regularly fall below -30°C, creating frost patterns on windows and freezing any exposed skin within minutes. Pack thermal clothing, winter boots, and thick socks if you visit between November and March. The continental climate brings summer temperatures around 25°C and severe winters, while spring and autumn see rapid temperature changes.
Walking Through the City Center
Kościuszko Street runs through rows of yellow and white classicist buildings from the 19th century, with carved stone window frames and metal-studded wooden doors. The street leads to St. Alexander's Co-Cathedral, its twin towers rising 45 meters above the city. Visit the District Museum, housed in a former merchant's building with six ionic columns at its entrance. Maria Konopnicka's childhood home contains the poet's original desk, letters, and first editions of her books.
Lakes and Natural Areas
Dive in Lake Hańcza to explore Poland's deepest waters at 108.5 meters. Wigry National Park spreads across 150 square kilometers, with 94 square kilometers of marked forest trails. Walk quietly along the shoreline at dawn to spot beavers building dams, or scan the forest edges for elk, deer, wild boars, wolves, and lynxes. Rent kayaks to paddle marked routes on the lakes or hike through the ancient pines of Augustów Forest.
Local Food Specialties
Every traditional restaurant in Suwałki serves potato-based dishes. Order kartacze - dumplings made from both boiled and raw potatoes, filled with minced meat and spices. Try soczewiaki (fried potato dumplings), kakory (baked dumplings), or potato babka topped with crispy pork cracklings. These substantial meals developed as warming winter food in the cold climate.
Lithuanian Cultural Presence
In nearby Puńsk, 73.4% of residents speak Lithuanian as their first language. Look for bilingual street signs and government buildings, and listen to Lithuanian conversations in local shops. Children attend Lithuanian-language schools, while community centers host festivals celebrating both cultures. Local government offices conduct business in both languages, continuing centuries-old traditions.
